An old work box will latch into the cabinet if you don't want to do a box extender.

Either one will have to be removed if you replace the cabs

I actually did some work on the other side of the driveway and used this rock system to drain it away. It was a lot of dirt and clay so it kinda stayed mucky. I was hoping the rain would help wash it away but that didn't happen lol

Fencer here - I would agree.

The pipe looks like it's a heavier wall, you can either sleeve the entire post or buy brackets to mount board fence to pipe, with larger diameter pipe you can actually run self tappers in through the pipe.

Save yourself a bunch of work and talk to a fence pro about building on the existing structure.

Yeah so for the driveway it's got a "lip" I can take a pic if needed. It's one of those neighborhoods that has a half-pipe shaped edging at the end of everyone's yard that runs along and empties into storm drains wherever they are. I don't think I have ever seen water spill over that, and then the top of my driveway also has a "hump" to it. Our driveway is actually shitty we don't even drive down it because it's too steep and short lol.

I don't actually have an issue with water getting into my garage unless the downpour is really heavy and even then it isn't too bad. On the other side of my driveway we have a downspout that goes down and into another section of our backyard, but it's currently sitting higher than the driveway due to terrain but could be fixed. I don't know if cutting into the concrete would be more trouble than it's worth honestly.

Oh gotcha, I misread another comment and thought you didn’t have anywhere to run the water. You can throw a drain box in, they make “socks” for them that are going to fill up pretty quickly with sediment but it’ll do the job for one area. You’d still have to connect it with solid pipe to the other run

I used these to keep the doors closed on my moms kitchen cabinets that had the same hinges as yours OP.

Replace the hinges.

wood rots when in contact with earth. dry rot will happen when in contact with concrete. so the way to prevent rot is to use a concrete pier until floor is above the earth, and then use a resilient sill plate such as preservative treated lumber for pieces in contact with concrete. alternative is to use a raised post base bracket such as made by Simpson.

Ah okay just making sure! That would be doable. I know we have some around already but I don't know if they are for the drains or something else.

Would it be fine to have another small box drain or something similar at the beginning of the driveway (maybe a channel drain if it can work) and have it connect to the current box drain and the downspout?

From where this box drain is I believe it connects to another one or two downspouts and travels down a pretty steep slope and off into my backyard in a area we don't use. It currently can handle the water it does get even when this rock area is working so it may not be overrun..maybe.

I would say just let there be 1.5" gaps on each side.

If you really want it to be a perfect fit, fur out the wall with flat 2x4s + drywall. 1.5" 2x4 + 0.5" drywall gives you the perfect 61" fit.

This is what I was thinking. OP, if your posts are in good shape still, check this out before you cut them all out: https://www.hooverfence.com/fence-accessories/fence-brackets

Thanks! It's sod.

You should have seen it before when I tried to fix the lawn..or at least how it looked before I tried to DIY it..lol

We prefer to have these rocks not overrun by soil and weeds, and to do the job the prior owners presumably attempted to make it do is all.

It's half of a corrugate pipe so it doesn't actually do anything.

Yep. Keeps pipe clean and clear.

I just replaced my chain link with wooden fence and I just reused the poles instead of sinking 4x4s. The extenders and hardware weren't overly expensive.

So they left you with a French drain and you are not happy with how it flows??? Take out the small pebbles and rocks clean them and replace. It should be fine they didn’t have fabric 1000 years ago either.

Invest in a respirator. Zinc oxide is bad stuff

What blades are you using? In my experience Diablo blades are worth the extra cost.

Why wouldn't the grass verge hold back the sediment? Just trying to understand. Most grass locks in the soil.

I used a stand up car jack with a piece of chain wrapped around the pole. It pulled them out clean and I was able to use the same hole. I did this after heavy rain, so the hole was completely flooded. Poured a bag of concrete and mixed with a heavy duty drill and set my posts for an 8 foot fence.

There's concrete in them, at least a little. It flows up the open ended tube or a little was added to the top.

Buy an angle grinder, face shield, and cutting disks. Some grinding wheels too but the disks will do the bulk of the work. A gas powered demo saw would be even better if you can rent one and handle it (they're heavy and dangerous, will cut flesh like a chainsaw).

Metal cutting abrasive disks don't mind cutting some masonry.

Sawzall blade teeth dull immediately in masonry.

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It's all running downhill. And it'll never stop. So you either design a system to work with it, or plan to clear it out every so often. Likely some combination.