That is something I will plan to do as well. Thank you also for the detailed write up. Seems like the thin coats seem to be the way to go as well! Thanks!

Yeah, this is the hero the question deserves.

Why fix it? Bought a new edger you can't wait to use? Sidewalk isn't sufficiently overrun by grass?

Stick your tongue on the wires, only way to know for sure!!!

The 20ft grass verge immediately next to it?

Just to add to this, you may want to paint with bin shellac primer to minimize any issues the mud may do to whatever is on the wall. Also, if your doing skim coating first time and want a dead flat finish, I would get the 45 min, 60 minute mud and do the thinnest coats possible. I’m talking less then 1/16” thin or pull it pretty tight so there’s almost barely any on the wall. You can scape any bumps and go again once dried. Skim coating is an art that pros who are good can get away with 2 to 3 coats or less. For people just doing it the first time, do 5 to 10 coats and do a 10 to 12” trowel and put the mud on the trowel, don’t paint it with a roller. It’s much easier to control but will take a lot of time which is why you should do the 60 min as you can go again once dry. You’ll have some divots from the old wall not being flat and parts that are uneven but each time you will fill it in until your last coat is flat and smooth. If you do thicker, you risk having uneven spots like you have. Some people like it but that is why your walls looks that way because folks do 1/4” or more of mud/plaster and then sand high spots but it’s left with larger uneven spots that looks similar to stucco.

Cuttin' shit with fire. That's the way!

I don't really have any help but the lawn looks great, bro

These are good questions, thanks.

1. There’s never been water in my sump pump and no drainage issues around the house. No evidence on the sewer cam of a crack line and no evidence of a leak on my water supply. I’m on flat ground with substrate of primarily coarse river gravel. In short no clear cause. Two hypothesis are poor installation under the slab and there was a flood a few years back (prior to possession) that did not leak water into house but would have been close, could have washed away a little. Sewer inspection team with the city says they see this relatively commonly in my area, it usually doesn’t progress, usually installation related. So you’re right, could happen again but there’s nothing obvious to fix. I suppose it could be a crack in the sewer line we can’t see on camera, but would become obvious once poly fill.

2. Tricky for sure. Plan was to drill 1.5 or 2 inch holes so there’s a little space. Pull out and loosen what you could immediately below the holes. The curvature of the hose clamp will want to hug the outside of the pipe and either hook it or powerful magnet on the other side to pull it back to surface. The pipe should be very close to the slab, it’s relatively close to the stack with relatively long way to go to the tie in and not a huge drop. In short the installation guys would need every inch they could get.

3. plastic. Ran cameras through it, pipes looks fine as best you can tell from a sewer line. 4” ABS

4. basement is finished, would prefer not to rip it up. I haven’t checked location of the line with a line finder, just best guess based on camera and tie in points. While the main part of the belly is down a hallway, the lateral from the second stack to the main is also slightly dipping and under my hot water tank and furnace. Would prefer not to be ripping everything out if I can solve more creatively. Breaking out and replacing a couple tiles is a lot less work than redoing a big chunk of the basement.

Thanks for your response. I’m seeing it a bit as a ‘no lose’. If it works I’m golden. If it doesn’t I have to cut into the slab anyway which is where I was at before

Everyone has a good start, corrugated sock pipe inside french drain etc etc. Thats great, but the water doesn't have anywhere to be stored until it can disperse.

With that slope, and your downspout connected you're going to need to dig a basin if you cant get rid of the water somewhere else. NDS makes a really easy to use product called a flow-well that I've used hundreds of times with great results. It basically just lets you dig out a big hole and it'll hold like 50 gallons by itself. You're still going to have to wrap it in good weed fabric, I would always just dig a big hole and then line the hole, drop in the flow well, and backfill inside the fabric with 4" rock to make an even bigger basin.

That water is just gonna fill up a french drain that doesn't have anywhere to dump to, they aren't magical unfortuantely.

Yes, something like this Clean out

they were screw in but the threads are encased anyway

Rent an acetylene welder/cutter from United...

|----- 63 -----| space

|----- 60 ----| vanity

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NOT A SNUG FIT from top to bottom. You need an expansion gap at the bottom or top plate. Basement floors can move (especially a 2" floor if you're correct).

You can find better articles, but this is the first one I could pull up.

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As far as fastening, PL is fine. In fact if you ever try to remove it, you'll probably split the wood before the adhesive would ever let go. I prefer tapcons because I've been known to put a plate or two in the wrong place. :) Tapcons let me "adjust".

Looking at that slope, he's gonna have to put a basin in as well. That drain box is 10" deep and fills up really fast. the PVC "french drains" only work if they have somewhere to take the water.

Are you even sure you have the right hinges? Euro hinges are available as inset (edge of side panel exposed, outer surface of door is flush with edge of side panel when closed), half overlap (side panel is shared by 2 cabinets, inner surface of door sits against side panel when closed, each door overlaps half of side panel), and full overlap (each cabinet has its own side panel, door overlaps whole side panel when closed), and they look pretty much the same.

Is there something (piece of sawdust?) pinched between the metal and the laminate, so the metal is at a slight angle? When magnified by the length of the door, this could result in a gap caused by the angle being more than the door closure adjusting screw can compensate for.

1. Do you know what caused the settling in the first place, and have you remedied it? Otherwise, you'll be repeating the process.

2. How do plan to fish down through one hole, past any gravel/fill, under the pipe, and then back up through gravel/fill to a relatively tiny hole?

3. Is the pipe plastic? If it's cast iron, any strange stress could crack it. Or perhaps the pipe is already leaking somewhere causing the settling in the first place?

4. If your basement is unfinished and you have clear access to the concrete, you can do most of the work on your own. (I've replaced entire sections of sewer pipe.) Get a saw and a couple of diamond blades -- a thrift store circular saw is ideal. Cut a line either side of the trench you need and break out the concrete. Raise the pipe and pack fill under it. Add a little rebar to the edges of the trench and fill it while also bringing up the floor to the correct level.

But again -- if you haven't figured out why it happened in the first place, it's likely to happen again.

Radon mitigation first. If it's that old it was not designed as livable space. It was designed to store things and root vegetables.

As allangee points out, the best way to deal with it is by not putting the posts in the ground/concrete. Instead have the posts set on top of the concrete piers.

This does require additional lateral bracing in the rest of the structure.

Inch and a half filler scribes to match the cabinet, custom made top to fit the space. Any thing less is just making stuff up to cover a gap. Nothing wrong with making up stuff to cover a gap if your OK with that. I make and install cabinets for a living and what I described is what I would consider doing the job correctly and it is how I would do it at my house. If you are in the Portland Oregon area maybe I could help you out. Offer void if you are a serial killer.

Did exactly that. Not many vanities come in 12” depth 36” wide, but upper cabinets do. Color matched furniture feet from Amazon.

Somehow top and sink were easy to find.

Oh it’s a VERY high gloss pain, I don’t know if it is really high gloss but if it’s semi, it’s a really aggressive semi gloss. I plan to go matte or eggshell. There really is only 3 walls that need worked like this, 2 in the living room, and this wall pictured in the kitchen, but is a decent bit away from the appliances I would like to be able to use matte on as well. I appreciate the comment sir!

Wow, that was a fantastic write up. I really appreciate that. Fortunately, there really is only 3 large walls that will require this doing it to it. I’m not afraid of the work, so that write up is likely what I will follow. I appreciate it!