Recent comments in /f/DIY

allangee t1_jdruzg9 wrote

If your basement is damp, pretty much anything you put on the walls and/or floor is going to come off in short order.

If your yard grading is causing water to flow towards the house, you need to fix that by re-grading. The proper way to avoid dampness in the basement is to seal the exterior of the walls and make sure your drain tile is clear.

A stopgap solution might be some of the sealing products you see advertised for the interior walls, but I don't no anyone having any long-term success with that.

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Dewey_Decimated t1_jdrugcf wrote

This looks like older plaster and thus may have some inherent texture to it. But the linked photos also make it look like the paint is very high sheen, like semi-gloss, even on the ceiling. A high sheen paint is easy to clean but will show every imperfection. Something more flat will hide those imperfections. I like to use matte everywhere except kitchen and bathrooms, and only use semi-gloss for trim.

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allangee t1_jdruadp wrote

In Manitoba here. You won't have any rotting in winter as everything will be frozen.

I'm assuming you'll have at least three posts for the structure so there's no worry about it tipping side to side. That means you can put in concrete piles with brackets for the posts on top. That way your posts aren't in the soil or in the concrete. The metal brackets are set into the concrete before it cures, and then the posts are bolted to the brackets. Use pressure treated posts and make sure you use end cut treatment on the ends. If you want to be extra cautious, there are inverted cone-like things that will direct rainwater away from post and footing -- but I don't think that's really necessary.

Make sure you grade things so the centre of structure's "floor" is slightly higher than the edges to prevent water pooling.

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iconoclasterbate t1_jdrsmv3 wrote

You can do both, probably should.

Knock down any peaks with a wall scraper blade or aggressive sanding, then skim coat till smooth. Sanding is messy, wear a mask, cover and tape places you dont want dust and test paint for lead first.

Your walls seem fairly flat, so you might be able to forgo the sanding and mess it creates. I would just give it a once over if so, just so a thick paint bump doesn't add 3 extra coats to your skim job

Either way step one is a TVP wash, cleans oils off, makes surface more porous and ready to paint/mud

Buy mud, mix till yogurt like, so a little more runny than the premixed comes. Add water slowly, cannot remove water. A mixing paddle and drill and 5 gallon bucket works fine

Thick roller on a pole is dipped in and applied to wall

Smooth with a wide trowel. I like the 24" rubber edged ones

Let dry, scrape peaks off, repeat till wall surface is all mud, sand smooth, primer, paint

check wall by shining a bright light against the surface, looking for imperfections in shadow cast

Its laborious and tedious, but not hard. Easier and cheaper than replacing with drywall, but not faster

You'll be proficient after a google search and you finish your first wall. Good luck!

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Sometimes_Stutters t1_jdrry25 wrote

You don’t. The texture is inherent to plaster walls. Both sanding or skim coating are absolute bears of projects, and you’d be hard pressed to make it look as good as drywall. Probably just as well to replace the drywall entirely (which is also a ridiculous project).

My recommendation would be to learn to live with it.

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putriidx OP t1_jdrrf13 wrote

Awesome thank you! Yeah. It's odd because it really doesn't bother my garage much when it rains. Our neighborhood has those little sloped curbs so most of the water is coming from rain landing on the driveway/yard.

I'll check this guy out I don't think I've seen him out thank you!

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Klaatu162 t1_jdrr8l4 wrote

I agree with you. A half pipe or some other open trench to carry away the water and sediment. It should go directly to your catch basin, which you will have to clean out whenever it get filled with sediment. The open trench should be set below the edge of the walkways. The Georgia clay and silt soil will clog any filter cloth around a buried drain pipe. The trench should be open to allow for easy cleanout.

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