(What colour) Should I paint my bar?

I built a collapsable rollable neighbourhood bar / dining room table, with flags on the front, and two countertops, which are both currently white, painted in about 6 layers of basic emulsion on cheap cheap fibreboard kinda material. Should I:

1. Paint both white surfaces in a deep wood colour so it looks like a teak bar?

2. Paint the top one (main one for drinkers) deep wood, and keep the bottom one (hidden one for bartender) white, so it's easier to see things?

3. Epoxy them with a number of very thin coats of epoxy after painting & drying?

4. If you think painting either surface a nice wood colour would look good, do you think any of the stains are appropriate? Looks like I have 3 x redwood, and polyurethane, linseed oil, and the aforementioned epoxy. So it seems I have 3 of the same-ish (wrong) stain colour, and 3 different flavours of sealant.

5. If those aren't appropriate: based on this I think I'd want a restoration stain, hybrid (oil vs water based), so potentially this shortlist. This says dark brown reclaimed oak is the best for bar tops, so this or this are potentially good options?

6. Am I right in thinking I wouldn't need to epoxy if I used those since they're waterproof? But presumably I'd still want to in order to create the hard flat shiny surface that'll be easy to clean?

Thanks in advice for any ideas, suggestions, thoughts. Cheers!

Is the door bowed out maybe? Old wooden cabinet doors will do that, especially in a high humidity situation like a bathroom.

If you could take a photo and upload it to like Imgur and drop the photo link here people will be able to better advise you :)

I agree. Where is the sediment coming from???

Maybe I didn’t word my question well, but I would like to make the walls flat again and remove the texture, any idea what the best method for that would be?

The pergola post footings aren’t connected to the house so…no, no issue with the house foundation.

You definitely don’t want a patio sloping towards the house but that’s easy to deal with at install time by properly preparing the base layer (and grading it away from the house accordingly)

Hard to tell for sure, but it looks like it’s just lathe and plaster. That’s how it normally looks.

That sloped driveway situation is.....unfortunate....for water management.

Check out this YouTube channel for some ideas on a more permanent solution, this guy is pretty thorough/arguably overkill but it depends on how much you can DIY. I think I've seen him deal with a front yard/driveway/walkway issue very similar to yours.

https://www.youtube.com/@GCFD/videos

Yes. Install the electrical box flush with the drywall/whatever is behind the cabinet. Pull wires out and slip the extension ring on before installing your receptacle. Your plug now sits flush on the inside of your cabinet.

45 years ago, I learned how to find the hot wire, using a neon-light circuit tester, and my finger. If the wire was the neutral, nothing. If it was hot, a dim glow. Hold one of the test leads to a wire, the other to my finger.

Float it off the wall with even gap on either side and recess a led strip behind the mirror shining out (glowing from behind the mirror) this will act as a 'vanity' light setup, and look nice.

Just feel the wire. Neutral wires are indicated so the neutral will have a ribbed feeling to it the hot does not. Specifically, this is the outside of the wire and will be obvious once you learn it.

So the hot box in the wall is normal and the faceplate is extended with this device?

If you dig it up consider adding one or two clean outs as insurance

You were correct. The neutral should go to the threads for safety.

Polarity shouldn't really matter in this application from a functionality stand point, it would be preferable to have the neutral on the threads of the socket though so you don't get zapped changing a bulb.

yeah on the chandelier. i thought there was a right and wrong way as they go to different parts of the lamp

The big sloped driveway I'd presume

Also, where exactly are you wanting the water to discharge?

You mean the live wire on the chandelier fixture itself? There is no live on it. You can connect to either of the black wires on the fixture. It will flow into one and then out of the other regardless completing the circuit. If there was a polarity to the fixture, very rare but can happen, one wire will be marked differently than the other, like a red stripe on one a white stripe on the other and this will be noted in the install instructions

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Where is the sediment coming from? It is not falling out of the sky. It looks like the same material that is used for the current “drain”.

We've brought these photos to Home Depot and some knowledgeable friends, and so far, no one knows what they are or how to best remove them.

We tried rotating the pins, but they're too small to rotate with a 6mm or 7/32in socket and too large to rotate with a 5mm or 3/16in socket.

A hex pin inside a larger hex socket: https://imgur.com/a/kbETtMm

A backed out view from inside the house: https://imgur.com/Al6iskQ

There are 3 of these pins on each vertical side of the frame. Anyone know what they are and how best to remove them?

I'd consider getting a smaller vanity so that the gaps on the side look intentional.

Tear it all out and start over?

You want a full pipe with some sort of wrap material to keep sediment out of of it... if a 'french drain' is the desired result.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_drain
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_drain#/media/File%3AFrench_drain_diagram.jpg