If they go through the work of digging up, is there a way to deal with the excess sediment at the end where the trench meets the driveway? Seems to be the worst spot for the finer sediment and then gets introduced to the entire system from the start.

Oh yeah. makes sense thanks

You don't have to connect anything. Do it with a multimeter.

Or 4” sock pipe with a stone aggregate for drainage through.

so connect them up turn it on pit one end on live supply and one on the socket and look for reading of zero?

Use a steel old work box and screw the mounting ears to the plywood cabinet back with two #4 wood screws (placed diagonally).

Like it is now it will always clog, that gravel works like a filter catching all the dirt.

French drain will help to some extent. The soil/gravel over it should be below the level of the path so the water doesn't spill over the edge.

Other solution would be to put a smooth half pipe along the path down to the drain, without filling it with gravel (some big stones if wife insists). Water has to flow freely. Drain will clog so it will have to be cleaned on regular basis.

Water turned off everywhere. The Mains, the hot water heater, Warer softner system. I know they’re all connected, but still there’s the drip.

Life hack: smash the bulb and use a cut potato to unscrew it.... /s

You should be able to do a continuity test between the fixture's socket and the wire. The hot will be connected to the socket base and the neutral will be connected to the threads.

OP is just using the extension cord to determine which wire is Hot and which is Neutral. Since the box was not grounded, he used the ground in the extension cord to make the measurement.

I have a Ghost light. What is happening!?

Simple.......put fillers on either side of the vanity and order a bigger top and cut it to fit between the walls. Or order a top made to fit.

All that gap is gonna look like crap! Dust bunnies forever.

I'll try to remember to snag a picture later, but from the box drain to the backyard (side of house) it's a pretty good slope then once it hits the back yard it kinda levels but then slopes for 50 or so more feet pretty good.

The drain here goes all the way back a few hundred feet and on the way is connected to another downspout and I am not sure how they did it and I don't even know if I want to look lol

If it is not working, dig it up and replace with some of the premade PVC French drain pipe.

Electrical wouldn't need to move, look up extension rings, they're meant for this actually! https://www.homedepot.com/p/ReceptXtenders-1-2-in-1-Gang-Electrical-Receptacle-Box-Extension-Ring-00004/100159668

What's the back yard like? Can you continue the trench around the house to drain around back?

If not, your best bet is probably to rip it out and build a proper French Drain. Judging by that slope, it'll need to be a right big one. 1,000 cubic feet or more.

Kinda depends on the hinges, and how the door is designed to rest within the box of the cabinet. Pics, as always, would help.

There might be hinge adjustments you can make, or you might be able to add a magnetic closure to the non-hinge size of the door.

>for fan motors & light bulbs this is not an issue

Proper neutral is important for light bulbs with an Edison (screw) base. The threads must be neutral to reduce the risk of shock when changing bulbs.

Scarify the concrete with at least one stripe by a diamond wheel in an angle grinder. If sealed, the PL will just glue plate to the film of sealer. Try to find treated fir- just for the plate. In AB it will be mostly hemlock.

Second Sherwin Williams used on builder grade oak you cannot see the grain at all.

Are they soft-close hinges, or just normal hinges?

If they're normal, just get a cabinet door magnetic to hold it. Replacing the hinges themselves may or may not fix the problem, depending on how well you install them.

If they're soft-close, there's an adjustment screw on them that may help, or else they are faulty and require replacement.

in most cases it is cheaper to screw up a job 3 or 4 times before hiring someone is worth it, and only then if the guy you hire does it right (which they often don't).

Tile trim edging + caulk to fill the .25"?

i appreciate the former more than the latter. you can't always depend on other people to do your work for you.