Recent comments in /f/DIY

imnotsoho t1_jdr1evr wrote

Do you have your high voltage wires in place, what are you going to use the plug for? You might want to cut that hole in the cabinet bigger, install outlet in sheetrock, and use foam to isolate the behind the cabinet area.

This must be for a garbage disposal or water heater? If you want the plug for something outside the cabinet, do you have room to put it at the end of the cabinet facing out?

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sti-wrx t1_jdqxusp wrote

I’m an electrician by trade, here’s what you need.

https://www.gescan.com/products/15-enclosures-boxes/01-box-hardware-accessories/10-rings-extenders/p-QVJMQkUx-arlington-industries-1-gang-1-12-inch-electrical-box-extender-white

This separates your energized outlet from the cabinet walls. You may need longer 6/32 screws to reach your metal electrical box in behind.

Frequently used for microwave plugs/appliance plugs inside cabinetry. Good luck!

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crashorbit t1_jdqx9gn wrote

Ceiling box? What kind of wiring is it? standard romex style bundles? Chances are the lazy electrician never hooked up the ground and just left it dangling. If this is older construction then getting a ground there will be, um, harder.

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Electrical_Ad3540 t1_jdqw0uk wrote

I don’t understand, why does it have to be flush side to side?

https://www.decorpad.com/photo.htm?photoId=173552

Edit:

https://cabinetsolutions.com/cabinets-bathroom

Picture 21 is a solution. You can see that the sides under the counter have little wedges to make the counter fit the space above the cabinet. I personally don’t see the point but if it’s the look you’re going for, it works

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CraigSchwent t1_jdqveh5 wrote

Sorry, can't help ya there, I know here in Colorado, US, I had to put down floating walls in my basement due to how much the ground moves (treated 2x4 secured to concrete and then the top plate of the wall is secured to the ceiling while the bottom plate is left about an inch and a half above the treated 2x4 to allow for movement)

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age34act12 t1_jdqurby wrote

As long as you use a decent quality adhesive and cut the studs tight to fit it's fine for interior walls. Exterior walls that's covering the foundation will have a footer underneath the slab like the posts do. Treated lumber on the bottom plate will decrease in size as it drys out so if it ain't tight it ain't right!!!!

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thin_veneer_bullshit t1_jdqqplm wrote

The kiwi is the national bird of New Zealand. The fruit is named after it (much later). Typical NZ slang has NZers referring to themselves as Kiwis. Our dear dear cousins across the ditch (aussies in case that not immediately obvious) call us that, where as we call the Aussies ( or bogans). Yanks is abbreviation of Yankees, a affectionate nickname taken from WWI (I believe) when US soldiers served alongside the Brits and her colonial lackeys... I mean subjects. All slang is pretty much affectionate, not meant to be a diminutive or derogatory... mostly.. ;-)

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--Ty-- t1_jdqpz68 wrote

Yeah. Even for small structures like a garden shed, or a slab for a barbeque, it's always 4" min, and for an actual home, it's 6" min.

There are foundations that don't need a thick pour, like a raft foundation, where the actual footings can be 10" thick, but then the rest of the area is covered in just one or two inches, basically just to keep the dust and dirt down, but those types of foundations wouldn't be used for a basement that's meant to be occupied. At most, it would just be a crawlspace.

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