Paint prep soap. Used to come as a powder that looks like sugar.

If the old paint is still attached firmly you can sometimes just put an undercoat with the sealer/primer you'd use to prep bare plaster. Did you do the test where you score an x and then see if the old paint pulls up with tape?

If you are putting acrylic paint over oil based paint you often need an undercoat anyway.

I've only ever gotten a good result on flaky/cracked/shitty paint by stripping and starting again. Took me two attempts on a big ceiling to learn my lesson.

What is sugar soap?

Oh, yeah it’s definitely a gas dryer

I see it’s working but yes those were too small for 220V, 40A electric dryer. Seems to be a gas dryer and 120/15A motor.

This confirms my suspicions and eases my fears! Thanks again.

DRICORE sounds interesting, I'll have to check it out. There is an old drain on the outside wall, so I don't think that would be an issue.

Yeah, sounds like trying to get it level is going to be a lot more work. I think if I can raise it up a little higher than it currently is, I can have a cleaner looking threshold at least.

This sounds like the way to go, thank you so much for the suggestion! Going to look into this more.

Thanks for the heads-up! Yeah, this isn't a tiny room so it might be out of the question for the scope of work I can take on at the moment. I like the idea of the cement board!

Yeah, that's a good consideration! I think I'll try to only raise it slighly with, concrete board or some cork, like some of the other suggestions. Takes the pressure off of trying to level it perfectly and maybe I can still have a cleaner looking threshold than the current toe-destroyer.

Should work great. If you have a grinder and enough access grind the opening of the crack a little bit to clean it up and allow better penetration. I also masked off the area around the break with tape to keep the epoxy off of the surrounding area. Be patient Let it cure a good long time depending on your weather. Warm temps speed up reaction time cold slows it down a lot. Good luck!

Perfect! Thanks!

They make static mixers for jb weld- syringe like nozzles that mix as you apply. I use similar at work for industrial adhesives. Works great. https://i.imgur.com/wKBIqoX.jpg

Love the cement sealer idea. Will use JB weld. Need to get a syringe to inject.

I just used JB weld to fix a part on a cast iron sculpture in my yard. Worked great and made it through a crazy winter too. I am going to use it on a cement piece that I broke removing snow. Should work fine, make a jig to support the parts in the proper position. Can be sanded after cured. Should be good as is but may want to store dry inside during winter season.

If you want to paint, clean and etch if possible and use a cement sealer.

Most caulks bought at a home center, yes. Not all caulks though

Duh. Totally slipped my mind lol

Gas dryers bro

And to answer your question, I’m in the US. Pittsburgh. The plug that came with it looked remarkably small for a dryer…

Oh, I don’t know. It’s a whirlpool from the 80’s it looks like

Thank you for your detailed responses. No other window wells show any indication of standing water, even though several other covers are cracked, including the other 2 on this side. The gutters do overflow from the roof in the middles because they are filled with leaves. I put off cleaning them because of many other moving issues that I've been dealing with daily after work. Lesson learned. The ground in the area wasn't particularly squishy compared to any other parts of my property this morning, but it seems like plenty of water did get into the well. I do think the well sits a bit tiny lower than the surrounding yard, although it does have a lip.

The gutters from the house run into the ground, which I think Google has told me may be the French drain that you mentioned. The flooded well is the middle of the side of the house. Is it possible it drains near there for some reason? I think we could fix this if the gutter drainage is the problem. Would I start by digging at the base of a gutter to find it?

Miles and miles of my area are at risk for mine subsistence, including my subdivision. (I have an insurance rider for this in case it results in damage to the home.) That makes me think that water table issues are unlikely.

Wait wait. Is this a 120v dryer? Where are you that these exist. Or is it a compact small dryer for an rv or something

I like it too. Easy to work with.

Moisture problems can have more than one cause. The window well isn't necessarily a cause, it's at least a symptom or indicator of a condition to correct. If you are willing to do the work to fix the issues you can save a lot of money vs hiring pros. I would start with figuring out if the gutters are drained properly away from the foundation. Direct the water away from the foundation. Next, consider whether there are surface drainage issues and consider a French drain and damp proofing your foundation walls from the exterior. Next consider hydraulic pressure of water in the ground. If the water table is very high you may need to remove the flooring and cut into the slab, install a drain line around the interior perimeter of the foundation and drain it to a sump. Be ready to sweat. Don't be scared to rent the right equipment to do the job. Like a small excavator or a concrete demo saw.

If I was in your shoes I wouldn't do any finish work until I was sure the water issues were corrected.