Recent comments in /f/DIY

Full-Cat5118 OP t1_jdmqv7n wrote

I think this likely true. There is one drain that is visible elsewhere in the basement, and I found a very small amount of dampness near it. I will just have to look harder for the sump pump. My guess is that this drain is likely closer to the sump pump and thus overflowing more. Does that make sense? Trying to decide where to start pulling up floor to keep it to the smallest amount possible.

1

Worldly_Unit_9031 t1_jdmncsp wrote

If you do this, make sure you insulate both the delivery and return pipes to reduce the amount of heat loss on water returning to the water heater to be reheated. Also install a pump with a adjustable timer so that water is not being recirculated at unnecessary times

2

clemclem3 t1_jdmk25c wrote

Silicone is often a problem because it sticks to silicone better than anything else. Over time movement will cause silicone to peel off of one side of any joint and stubbornly stick to the other side and be a p i t a to remove. Quad is much better. Quad is a version of polyurethane sealant or PL. These sealants are difficult to apply and messy and they never really cure so they sort of stay gummy but they have really good performance as sealers

Siliconized latex or. Siliconized acrylic is a very different thing. Paintable. Water clean up. Stays flexible better than regular latex

Good old regular latex caulk my brand is white lightning is still a very good option for anything that's going to be painted over. It holds paint well and it's very inexpensive and easy to apply

There's also butyl rubber mostly used on metal like gutters and copolymer sealant like lexel. Very messy very difficult to apply but can provide really good performance for the right application

2

imoutohere t1_jdmd42e wrote

There is a product called Quad. You can get it at big box stores. It isn’t very paintable. But you can groom it better than silicone. I would also recommend phenosil. My experience has been the clear caulking and silicone tend to yellow over time. But cracking after 2 yrs? That’s weird.

8

Pravus_Belua t1_jdm71bn wrote

Your submission has been removed for one or more of the following reason(s):

  • Your post was regarding cooking, cleaning, general maintenance items.
  • Your post was regarding sewing, general automotive repairs, cosmetics.
  • Your post was regarding software design, CNC, 3D or laser printing.
  • Your post was otherwise not considered a good topic fit for this subreddit.
  • Please consider submitting these projects to /r/crafts, /r/homeimprovement, /r/woodworking, /r/electronics or /r/findareddit to help you find a subreddit applicable to your project.

Please read our Full Sub Rules before resubmitting.

If you believe this was a mistake, please message the moderators.

###Do not respond to this comment - you will not receive a response.

0

Martian_Xenophile t1_jdm5lwv wrote

Buy why would you go through that trouble unless you don’t know concrete and only know framing? I see no benefit. It’s not cheaper, nor quicker, nor easier. I suppose if you have physical issues lifting heavy durock and mortar bags, you might prefer working with lighter wood, or possibly you know a way to cheap out on it, but to me it’s not sensible. What I believe is the case, is that a framer wants the opportunity to flaunt their skills, having only a hammer and seeing all problems as nails.

1