Would this problem effect my Heisenberg compensator? I’ll need it functioning properly to get to the Depot safely.

It is a ball valve. I don’t feel like that occurred but will check after work. Thanks for your input

Remembering that isn’t the issue. Why it happened and if there is a potentially a bigger problem on the horizon is.

thank you. I understand and agree that would be a quicker fix with immediate results. I'm looking for a more permanent solution. Already committed to tiles (bought them). let's see if this turns out to a major mistake at the end where I "fix" it, and then have to pay for someone to remove the mess I create, and really fix it :)

So on is off and off is on? What’s the problem, just remember that

An easy way to fix this (kinda) is to put in rubber pavers. Just google that and find some that are available near you. You put down a heavy duty plastic frame than some heavy duty stiff rubber composite pavers go into that frame. When you are done the patio will look like (kinda) like regular pavers but will have a hollow spac eunderneath in the plastic frame that will allow the water to filter into the drain and keep the pavers dry. It isn't the perfrect long term soluation but way easier and cheaper than busting out the concrete and will allow you to enjoy your patio faster.

Oh that’s good, I’m going to install some floating floors for the first time this weekend so at least I’ve got those points down hahah.

The existing floor is concrete, what supports? It’s a porch floor to be raised an inch. There’s not even a half inch of space for new supports under the sheathing. It makes no sense at all to frame and sheath a floor like that.

I did do basic research...the results were ambiguous that's why I'm asking.

Yup, tankless are promoted for [energy] savings that really never materialize due to the extra cost compared to a ‘tanked’ gas heater. With unlimited supply, saving are literally down the drain.

Hybrid/heat pump heater makes a lot of sense if natural gas isn’t available. Otherwise it’s more of making a point.

This is the right answer ☝️

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Most likely the flapper, but check whether the water level is at the top of the overflow tube. If the fill valve is leaking, that's what you'll see.

thanks for your advice.

thanks for your advice.

That is now the off position.

Thank you for the suggestions.

I hope these are appropriate questions to ask (still trying to learn how to abide by the forum's rules ):

Mortar wise, what do you think about reinforcing it with wire mesh? Any mortar will do or would you recommend some particular mix (not looking for a brand here -- the type),. Structurally strong concrete mixes seem to need 5" to 7" thickness which we cannot do here (I see your point about redoing the whole thing is the right approach).

Would adding a cement board on top of the mortar be a good idea? I am thinking this would reduce how thick the mortar needs to be and maybe it can help avoid crumbling in the long run. Or this is half assing it to the square :)

Thanks!

Put a few drops of food coloring in the tank. If the bowl water develops color, the flapper seal is likely leaking. If colored water/stains appear on the outside of the toilet, hopefully they'll point towards the leak.

The refilling on its own is because it's leaking. Most common place is the flapper valve (that's what opens to mske the toilet flush). It stops sealing properly and leaks into the bowl and the drain so occasionally the tank needs to refill itself. They're super easy to change. The wax ring isn't likely the issue. You can also check the bolts that hold the tank to the toilet. They pass through from the inside of the tank and are sealed with a rubber gasket that can sometimes leak if the tank gets moved slightly. See if there's water dripping from the ends of the bolts. If so, give the tank a gentle rock. The tank shouldn't be able to move at all so you may need to snug them a bit. Often that's enough but the rubber gaskets may need replaced. Just remember if you get new ones not to over tighten. Just enough to firm up the tank and try to tighten them evenly so the force is directed vertically, not at an angle

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You’re not wrong 😊

The right way is to cut out all the concrete. Then you drill holes into the slab, hammer in rebar, and repour it.

If I was going to half ass it, I would just clean it up and tile it with a super thick mortar bed so you can grade it as you lay the tile.

We raised our lanai (this was in Honolulu) and enclosed it, had to raise the floor about 2 inches for it to match the rest of the living area. We hired some guys to do it.

8am Sunday a full sized cement truck pulls up and 11 Philippino guys gather, one of them was about 70 and his job was to crack open Heinekens.

They run the cement to the back of the house using a big half pipe and get the whole thing laid in about an hour. 2 guys stayed and watered it and kept it smooth as it set up. It was vey noisy, a helicopter flew over and circled for a bit, our neighbors were not thrilled.

Turns out there was a gigantic development burn built about a mile from us, the cement guys would skim loads and do peoples small projects on their way to the big development.

Far as I’m concerned we got an experienced crew to do a top notch job for a really good price.

You sure you just didn't get confused? The way the lever is positioned will tell you open or closed