Recent comments in /f/DIY

Whiskeyisamazing t1_jdgc8j2 wrote

Check your state/city ordinances. In my city, a portable fire pit must be 15 feet from any structure or overhanging hazard (tree branch/power lines, hence why we call it the 15-foot cubed rule. 15 feet in all directions, including up.)

Now, to be fair, you'll probably never get called out on it. Sort of like operating a grill on a deck, which is also not allowed.

The issue is if there ever is a fire and your insurance company sends a private fire inspector and they see a portable fire pit with nowhere to legally deploy it, they are going to deny the claim. Then you just eat the full costs. This is from a fire starting outside. If your furnace blows up, they won't care about the fire pit

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SamBrico246 t1_jdgb4o9 wrote

Toggle bolts spread the load to secure onto a sheet of plaster or drywall.

In your case, you could go a tep further and use a peice of wood as your anchor. You wouldn't really need to secure the wood to anything, the TV bolts would hold it in place.

It might be overkill, but would be more secure then toggle bolts alone, but does require drilling straight through the wall producing holes in the closet to patch and paint when you leave

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Ohboiawkward t1_jdg8r7j wrote

No, this is not safe to use. It's way too close to the fence. Check your local code to see the recommended distance from structures. It's usually at least 15'. A small fire can turn into a big fire quickly and you don't want it that close to a wooden structure.

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11teenthousand t1_jdg8mcj wrote

Alien tape. Kid you not, it works nice. Use it to secure my dash cam to windshield, my three port 12v outlet extension to my center console. It's good stuff. Won't leave residue like 3m crap. That's the worst to get off. Try it out (alien tape). Comes in usually 3 big rolls.

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5degreenegativerake t1_jdg2fuc wrote

The ones I have used have a maximum thickness of 1” per pour. If the porch is sizable, that will take a whole lot of bags of self leveler but it will give you a near perfect substrate. It is a lot easier to get it level when you pour it in a higher thickness as it flows better. I would probably just do the 1” and then feather in the doorway over 4’ or so to make a smooth transition to the existing floor.

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AlfonzL t1_jdfz15c wrote

Look at your local building codes before questioning me, I know full well that in my area that vapor barrier and a minimum of R40 insulation is a code requirement. As well, a ceiling that prohibits flame spread is also a requirement. It doesn't have to be drywall, but something has to be there, regardless of the finished product. Drywall is the least expensive product, hence why it is used in 99.9% of applications.

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