You are great! Thank you so much.

Yeah I'd rather stare at trusses than a drop ceiling every day of the week. I do too, we're currently in the depths of a huge remodel. But mine has r38 insulation batts stapled between them because I'm not a fool who loves to waste electricity.

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I was afraid you'd ask that. ;-)

There's a bunch spilled down the label and I can barely read it. *scrape, scrape* Valspar Stainblocking Bonding Primer | Sealer -- Extreme Adhesion. Lowes product #46620. I used a light coat, covering all surfaces (including the annoying grooves in the paneling - a roller with a higher nap helps here) but definitely not producing a uniform white after primer alone. Instructions say not to dilute, but I did a tiny bit--this made the paint roller very drippy... but the final result looks great.

As I’ve thought about this, it occurs to me that you mean I could put a block of wood of appropriate dimensions on the back of the cabinet and screw the rails to that. I should have though of that. Thank you. That may allow me to return the Swisco products.

Don’t trip, they just wanna say titty lamp.

I made myself stupid stoned painting oil based Kilz in a closed house in February. I didn't notice how bad it was until my husband came over. Essentially, oil based paint is not very different from sniffing glue. Use good ventilation.

Yeah, that'll work great. Benjamin Moore makes a similar one that a lot of folks here swear by. I've used Behr's comparable product (shhh, reddit hates Behr), and gotten fine results. The trim enamel dries hard with no tack. Follow the drying instructions, don't overbrush or coat too thick, and you'll be fine.

Nothing wrong with a tig ol bittie lamp!

Honestly, with how hard it is to find the rating you need on an outlet, I would just use steel waterproof conduit and go to town... Might be the safest yet most possible solution.

I'll keep my eyes open for you though!!

Agreed. I’m going to try the Swisco brackets and see if they support these rails. If not, then replacing the whole rail is not the end of the world.

If you can’t come up with a solution, it would not be the end of the world, imo, to just get a new pair of under mount drawer slides with their corresponding brackets.

A good question. It holds the end of the rail. The rail sits on it and doesn’t have a screw-friendly surface to attach it to the back. The flat surface faces the floor and therefore rests on this (cheesy, low cost, minimal, pisses me off) bracket.

The question is— what is this bracket doing that wood and screws alone cannot do?

I don’t think we are talking about the same paneling lol most of us are talking about cheap thin (fake) wood paneling commonly used in manufactured homes. Usually it’s nailed right to the studs so no drywall behind.

Not only is every cent they can save. But also the speed of how and what can be used.

You might want to try using a shellac-based primer like Zinsser Bullseye 1-2-3. It's one of the few primers that can actually block out stubborn stains like tannins in wood, and it's much more effective than latex primers like Kilz. Good luck!

Wood paneling has an oil based finish

Must use either oil based primer OR a bonding primer. Bonding primer designed specifically for such an application.

Must also clean the paneling well before hand

mostly there is not drywall underneath.

I THINK I can screw new, different brackets to the back panel. In fact that’s my general plan. Just trying to find a good bracket to use.

Thank you!

It would be easier to just pack out the back of the cabinet with wood of a particular thickness, and attach the drawer slides to that.

For me it was just easier. About 6 years ago I covered the gaps in some paneling with drywall mud to smooth it out then just painted over the whole thing. Has held up and looked fine since.

I don't have experience doing it but a lot of people 3d print hard to find plastic parts like this.

Relax man, don't crack over a titty lamp.