A large pack of wagos on Amazon from a container ship from who knows where may not have any certification. If you use wagos, I'd want them to be UL certified, a quality brand. I've seen some that are a stab type, some that have a lock down bar. The stab/push in type is just like back stabbing a receptacle. The lock down bar type seem to be better but pre-twisting wires and then locking down with a new wire nut is still the best way to maintain continuity and prevent a loss in amperage. If you connect a 12awg to a push in wago and have another 12awg wire continuing to a load, you may as well just use a 16awg wire to send to the load because that push in wago only has partial connection with the line. Think of it like this. Take a stranded wire and cut half the wires off on the stranded end and then twist it together with another stranded wire that has not been cut. The uncut wire will send the line power to the thinner cut wire and have a loss of power sending through the thinner wire. This is the issue with wagos, along with concerns over wires coming loose, wago falling apart, longevity, etc.

I laminated first. The sink hole will be covered by the sink so it has trim covering it. I just taped where I was cutting and that prevents any cracking.

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Cut the holes out 1st then lay the laminate and take the laminate out with a bottom bearing trimmer, may want to put masking tape around where the hole is so you don’t scratch the laminate and a quick rub round the edge with sandpaper as will leave a sharp edge. This is how we done it at a place I worked but may be better options.

I’d check with some local electricians first before you do anything. A fast charging station is a fairly considerable load, and they might not go near anything you did yourself and can’t show permits and inspections for.

I would think by code, and since it’s the right thing to do, you really want a sub-panel in the carport. Also, if you can, make it a 20-amp circuit for the lights, etc. You never know when you want to run a leaf blower or vacuum out your car.

Electrician here. If you are planning to add a 48a EV charger, you need to understand that an EV charger is considered a 'continuous' load. Meaning you need to treat it as being 1.25x the rated load: eg 48 x 1.25 = 60a. This needs #6 wire, not #8.

And for the cost, I would look at running an aluminum acwu armoured cable to the garage for a 100a subpanel. Where I'm at, practically the same cost as running #6 or #8 3 conductor in a conduit. Then, off the sub-panel, you can run lights, outlets, EV, etc. Gives you more flexibility down the line. Just be sure to treat your terminations with anti-oxidant if you go aluminum, and ensure your panel lugs are rated for aluminum conductors (most are).

I'm in Canada, so I'm trying not to go too much into code rules, because they're different up here, but the continuous load stuff is for sure the same. Check with a local licensed electrician for any specific questions you might have.

What are your thoughts on backstabbing with Wagos? Should this be a concern for small boxes? I replaced a bunch of dimmers and at times I had to place the wires inside tightly. All are wrapped with electrical wire.

Thank you! I used all 2’s and have larger ones left but didn’t remember there wasn’t a 4 :)

You can have faster EV charging but do you really need to super charge your car at home quickly? A 50a will charge all EV cars overnight which is what you’re really looking for.

You're not hearing me. Battery operated drills/tools are a scam.

That is a difficult question to answer. The first thing is to throughly inspect the places where the wood is moving.

It looks as if you may have access to the underside of the stairs, if you do then you will be able to tap the wedges in as they are probably why you have movement. The stairs are cheaply finished as shown by the bandsaw marks still showing on all the treads and risers. While not proof that the original makers skipped steps in production, it certainly makes it a significant possibility. This can be both good and not so great, the good point is that tightening the treads up may be easy, the not great point is that they may have used nails to avoid the time to make and fit the staircase properly.

TLDR just renailing will work for a short time it is a bodge specially if you don’t use cut nails.

That is certainly one way of doing things, though in my opinion the people who get impressed are those who don’t understand what is involved so I probably don’t want to impress them.

When I do a repair my aim is usually to completely hide that anything has been done. So in this case a simple glue joint is likely sufficient, however if I wanted belt and braces I would add a floating tenon or 2 (still invisible), but of course after the joint has set you can easily drill a few holes for dowels, that they are redundant for the joint strength though of course doesn’t matter as you can use wood for the dowels that doesn’t completely match the stair tread for added emphasis ;) .

As to over engineering it is certainly better than having items fail, so I usually ere on the side of “too much is only just enough”

What rod/flux/torch did you use?

I’ll rephrase it then as ‘Scandinavia’ 😄

Soldering is a great way to make an electrical connection but unfortunately it doesn't make a good mechanical one. This is why you shouldn't twist wires together in-line. You should twist them together and then fold the twist over. Much more mechanically strong even if it doesn't look as pretty.

Yeah, that's fine. Wago's only come in 2, 3, and 5 position versions btw.

what do you base that on? can you list any other 5cell 5aH batteries for significantly less? I do some RC stuff, and a turnigy battery is $50 on the dot. but its got no battery gauge, not armored in a plastic case, just a xt connector.

There are knockoff batteries of course, which are half the price, but based on performance and teardowns, none are as advertised.

the 60v flex volt stuff... now THATS expensive.

Oh for sure. I didn't realize Wago sold the backstab-type wire nuts. I agree the backstab type are less stable. My recessed lights came with one of those cheap backstab nuts and it definitely didn't hold the wire as well. I've pulled quite hard on a levered wire nut and it didn't budge, so i feel pretty good about those ones.

That scares me now. I changed several lights in our house and installed 7 dimmers mostly using the Wagos. I cut and stripped the wires cleanly, made sure the wires were all the way in the Wagos and that the Wagos were closed. What are your thoughts, is it safe?

Use DAP 230, it's great and printable.

Pushing a 14awg wire into a small hole in the back of a receptacle. Continuity is maintained essentially via a spring clip, rather than bending the wire around the terminal screw which is the correct method. While somehow this system passes ul certification, it is not a good idea for many reasons, and should not be considered a permanent installation. Just like wagos. Wagos are great in a pinch, but not a substitute for a permanent connection, if you were to ask most certificated electricians.

I'm from Denmark, never seen a wire nut.

Can you please explain what backstabbing is?

Yes! Wago is amazing! Question: if I have two wires to join but the only Wagos left are three-slot (or three wires to join and what’s left is a four-slot), is it ok to leave one slot empty but closed?

I'm one of the biggest DIYers I know and even I would toss that in the trash and buy a new one....But not before I kept it for 8 years telling myself I would weld it back together once I get some shielding gas to weld stainless.