Backstabbing outlets should be banned. I wonder how that ever passed through NFPA. They seem to work OK for some 10 years, then slowly start to weaken, creating endless problems. I do understand it’s much faster for an electrician to backstab over using the screw terminals, but ‘fast’ should not be the operative word when it comes to electrical installations. Quality and safety should be.

Backstabbing outlets should be banned. I wonder how that ever passed through NFPA. They seem to work OK for some 10 years, then slowly start to weaken, creating endless problems.

I find where I work it's about 50/50 and I hate the guys that tape their connections.

Inside there is less battery than most laptops.

It's a scam. Buy a generator and some corded and move on.

Backstabs definitely are. Not all "wagos" are created equal. So you need to be careful with them.

Is an 18v 5ah battery small?

It’s the largest I have ever used in 6 years in a trade as a journeyman. If a 5ah can’t handle it, we use a corded tool with generator.

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Or you could just… you know… buy the DeWalt tools instead…

Looks awesome! I wanna add it to my backlog of things to try (behind things I need to do and things I have to finish).

Sure, every cent is important in such a setting so it makes sense to not use them.

50 dollars for a small battery is insane.

I don't get it, is this a fire hazard or something?

>Those won't work in a factory setting. Where the idea is to make as many electrical items as possible. Be they beer signs, or even toys. They are not suitable for assembly type connection work.
>
>I spent nearly 20 years working in a factory that made fancy lamps aka beer signs. And I spent 95% of that time working in the wire connection sections of the lines.

Save them to use on other people's homes 😆

And then back stab your receptacles from your wagos. That's easy fire recipe, no matches required! 🤣

You too!

It's so sticky!

Oh yeah my comment only applies if everything is identicle

batteries should be similar prices. right now amazon has the Milwaukee 5ah for 66 and dewalt 5ah for 73.

with a bit of patience, both can be had for $50-60 (I havent seen $50 since covid/inflation, but people still say $10/ah is the target, though I think thats in the past).

anyway, point is, the cost and hassle of the adaptor would definitely keep me using milwaukee batteries if I had Milwaukee tools.

Be sure you're comparing like for like. At Home Depot right now, 2 3.0ah Milwaukee M18 batteries are $179 ($149 on sale) and 2 3.0ah Dewalt 20v max are $189.

I hate the wY fresh tspe behaves.

If voltage and type of battery cel (like lithium-ion or NiCd) it should work

Be aware that the battery protection circuit in the DeWalt system is in the tools, not the battery so make sure the adaptor has the protection circuit.

See also that the DeWalt 20v XR tools sold in North America are identical to the 18v XR tools sold in Europe.

This is exactly right, I have multiple welding processes available but do not have the right mix of welder, technique, and materials on hand to weld stainless - it is something I have never needed to do in my shop and I am skeptical of the quality of stainless here in the first place.

As it is I can't tell if the original joint was a weld or something more like a silver solder/braze. I imagine if it was a weld they would have had better penetration and cross-section than it had, so who knows if it was material that was even amenable to welding.

That is all to say I 100% agree with you. I knew it would take braze regardless of alloy, and with brazing there was almost 0% chance of destroying the base metal with poor heat control or other inexperience. Especially because I do not have any tiny OA tips or TIG available, the chances of me burning through the plate portion would just be too high.