Your submission has been removed for one or more of the following reason(s):

• Your question does not include the research you've done to find an answer yourself, or why that research didn't answer your question.

This is a basic requirement so others do not spend time repeating your steps. It is not a judgement about your question being "too easy." We're looking for evidence that you've made an attempt yourself.

• Please do not use /r/DIY as your first stop for questions - we are not Google.

• Please search Google and /r/DIY to see if your question has been asked before. Check owners manuals, tech support forums or contact the manufacturer.

• Have you already done some basic research and are still stuck?

• Please include what research you have done in your question so that others do not repeat your steps.

• Consider posting your question in the sticky thread at the top of the subreddit.

• Ask your question in our Discord server in the appropriate channel.

Please read our Full Sub Rules before resubmitting.

If you believe this was a mistake, please message the moderators.

###Do not respond to this comment - you will not receive a response.

Super Grip spray. It's awesome.

https://www.amazon.com/plasti-91209-6-Super-Fabric-Spray/dp/B000UDCC8K/ref=sr_1_3

True, I was guessing, but I have always had a gas water heater. The stratification should not come as a surprise as I am familiar with sharp thermoclines in the ocean but I did not make the connection.

Could also be sediment /rust build up inside the tank but it doesn’t seem old enough. Many tanks have a valve in the base that can be used to dump that water into the floor drain. That might help.

Used to be able to get ones with suction cups on the bottom. Might have been for bathing babies in normal baths. However, it would be good non-slip base.

If you have hard water your tank may be full of buildup. Figure out how to turn off supply and drain the tank so you can measure how much it holds. If it is down from the listed volume it might be time to change it out.

I recommend sticking with vinegar and skipping the hydrochloric unless you have some product specifically diluted for water heaters or are a pro with extensive knowledge on use and safety procedures. The muratic/hydrochloric acid sold for pools is so concentrated that it’s downright dangerous. Need to wear acid gloves, goggles, and be really careful. In an OSHA approved setting pretty sure it would require gown, face shield, and ventilation. Putting in too much would also corrode through the metal inside the water heater very quickly, and if any got in your eyes you could become blind and on skin you would get chemical burns.

Vinegar or citric acid (or even glycolic acid which is in Zepps descaler) are weaker acids and are effective at dissolving minerals but gentle enough on the water heater internals so really good for this application. Still be careful not to get any in your eyes.

It's pretty square! https://imgur.com/a/RmmcQsr

Looks like a lot but all the bits make sense.

Get a mat with a rubberized bottom

If you got to spend money getting an Underside and have to take the time to attach it I'd much rather just buy a pre-made actual bathroom mat and save the energy

Thanks! I didn't think about a different type of sheetrock for the utility room. The utility room is one big "L" in that corner. You can access the room from the one door that's already there...I've debated adding another one, but it's still accessible, still has adequate clearance, and still has enough room to get equipment in and out should any of that equipment need to be replaced. I guess I could go either way but it seemed like an extra cost for very minor added convenience, and then dealing with furnace noise by the TV. I'll give it more thought.

The walls I'm stuck with unfortunately. The original framing is still up which is 2x4 right up against the wall. It's not ideal, but I can still insulate with rigid foam and can save a decent amount of money and time not having to redo all that work.

Get a tankless water heater and never worry about hot water again.

Do you in fact know that there will be mixing, or did you guess? I thought so too until I watched a Technology Connections video on electric water heaters.

https://i.imgur.com/hoqaigM.png

It mixes much less than you think.

SweetHome3D.

This is something I originally wanted but backed off on. We don't have overnight guests very often. A shower makes the most sense in the back corner, but the toilet is already plumbed to go there so we would have to dig up the concrete and move a bunch of stuff. I was content letting this one slide given that we have three other full bathrooms in the house.

It’s drawn on drill paper? 😎

Check outlet taps first.

It’s possible but all depends on how quickly they shower. I believe the dip tube failed on my 9 year old Brandford White 40 gallon. It would get much colder after 5 minutes in the shower. After a few more minutes it was only warm on full hot. Due to how much rust there was at the cold water tank inlet I chose to replace the tank.

U probably plan but are not showing - fire rated Sheetrock and door for the utility room. And I suggest thicker (2x6) exterior walls with proper insulation. I updated our basement last year with hot water radiant flooring - it is fantastic. But mine took 4” insulation below the ~2” radiant flooring… here in Boston

If it's electric, you need to replace the resistance that heats up the water. Otherwise, all you need to do is remove the plaque buildup by filling the heater pipes with either vinegar or hydrochloric acid and purging it after an hour or so after it did its chemistry. Repeat with clean water 2 or 3 times to remove any traces of acids (tho it is not dangerous, it does sting in your eyes a bit if you shower with those residues).

This is way to go

Have you drained the tank? My 50gal tank was out of hot water in about 20m due to excessive buildup of sediment in the tank. Upgraded to 80gal hybrid and I can take an hour long shower now without having to turn the handle to compensate for lower water temp.

Kids took a bath in our 50gal jacuzzi tub, then they took a 20m shower, then the wife and I took a shower after and we just started to run out of water after 20mins.

80gar hybrid Rheem. Heating water after running out takes 4hours(we're asleep anyway) and only costs 20-30¢

That's where the 2 thermostats and dip tube come into play:

If the dip tube is working, it's putting the cold water into the bottom of the tank which helps stratify hot water at the top where it gets drawn off. And the lower thermostat will kick on to heat that cold makeup water to help maintain the tank temperature.

Once too much hot water is used and the lower element can't keep up, then it shuts off and the upper element kicks on to re-heat water near the draw-off as quickly as possible.

Your initial memory could be during the summer time when it takes less hot water to make a shower. Or fewer teenagers, lol. A cracked tube, dead element, and full of sediment are other things to check.

I upgraded my 50 gal tank wjth a 105 gallon Marathon years ago. Cranked up the temp a bit and installed regulators on the showers to prevent excessively hot water coming out. Even with a family of six, we never run out of water.

Is there any way to get a bathtub or shower down there? That would be a great addition for anyone in the bedroom down there

I would love to see the facade of this house. How and why are there so many nooks and crannies?? My house is almost perfectly rectangular