Anything is fixable. Myself it's a new door because although with some talent and time I may get the grain to look good but I wouldn't waste the time myself. But hey have a go at it.

Now what you should have done was pry the door stop off. Ya you would have had a bit of touching up to do but it would have given clear access to the strike to slide it back.

You might need a new dip tube. It's a pretty cheap repair.

Idk 2-3 showers seems about right.

I do have teens. This is definitely part of it but still seems to run out too quickly

It is electric. I will check the element and thermostat

Are the showers getting longer? My old water heater did fine until my eldest daughter became a teenager and her showers tripled in time duration. With 3 daughters (and one son) I upgraded from a 40 gal to an 80 gal to future proof the house.

If the tank is electric you might need to change the element and thermostat. If gas the only thing you can try is draining all of the water and sediment for better heat exchange.

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There is a mat made of diatomaceous earth that should work. It rapidly wicks away the water, too.

They sell rubber grip pads/mats you can put under it

The ones telling you to mount the ceiling fan bracket directly into the joist are correct. This solution will be stronger and safer than any "fan-rated" box you can buy. Use 2.5 or 3" construction screws and make sure they are solidly into the joist

Most fan mounting brackets have slots on either side so there is plenty of space to put the screws just outside the pancake box.

Avoid using the little metal tabs inside the pancake box. They are not strong enough and over time there can be metal fatigue because fans do wobble and vibrate.

I had to cut my door with a multitool when the lock jammed. And the kid needed their stuff ASAP. No advise, just commiserating.

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looks good from my house

Okay I'm headed to the store tomorrow. I have 4 to replace altogether

Wow, with some of the responses of it being unable to support a simple exhaust fan. Yes, that’s, standard install, though I’m not sure where the duct is. Also, looks like you have a connection for the fan and the light (red and black). Not sure if you have two switches or if spliced together both turn on with a single switch. Regardless, most of the “oh no you can’t do that” like you have a 1,000 pound fan is wrong.

This is not a fan rated box. A fan rated box would have 10-24 screws and screw posts or double ears. https://imgur.com/ldUwkw1.jpg

Don't just cross your fingers on this, you can get a fan rated pancake or saddle box and they're not very expensive.

Okay thanks. I put in shorter screws like you said. It seems to be holding but only time will tell. The fan is much lighter than the old fan which presumably was up since the 70s. So cross fingers :).

No it is not a ceiling fan box. Will it hold one? Hard to say. But it was never meant to.

I know this is a joke, but there are people out there are broken people out there who would do just that? Thanks for the laugh.

The issue is that if you are using a 12V supply and you get a 24V LED it can only use half of it's rated lumens (if it even turns on, some LED's will not activate without a power supply that is within 3-4 volts). Bascially it will be dim as heck if it turns on at all.
Rule of thumb is you should always match your LED's Voltage to the Battery or transformer size. Everything should be the same Voltage (or have the same voltage range if you are using a transformer) There are nuances of course, but it gets a little detailed.
Hooking up a 3-6V LED will probalby burn out immediately when it is turned on or soon after. It is getting too much voltage for the diode to handle.

That looks like the mounting plate for your fan off to the side of your photo. See if the mounting holes will adjust outward past the sides of the box. This box is likely screwed into your ceiling framing with those four silver screw heads that run in a line through the middle of it. Following that line past the sides of your box, use 3" construction screws to run through the mounting plate and between the outside edge of the box and your drywall. They should find the ceiling framing. Mounting like that would be secure enough to hang any ceiling fan from.

I have to respectfully disagree. Yes, oil is great in closed systems with tight tolerances, crank shafts, and transmission gear meshes. Grease is better left to closed systems or in applications where the grease exposed to dirt will not be able to work its way back onto the wear surfaces. Think of pins that hold hydraulic cylinders at pivot points or driveshaft joints. I would absolutely never put grease on an exposed chain or roller, as a dry lube or chain oil will be much better.

Edit: If it has a grease zerk, then grease it. For most other things, there is probably something better

No it's not going to hold the weight over time. Looks like that box is on joist. You can use if IF you run proper size screws for fan weight thru the mounting plate, thru box and into wood, so that the mounting plate is fastened to wood.

They have boxes for ceiling fans that are shaped to go over joist, but it will be centered on the joist and I cannot tell from picture if that what you have. If it is you can just replace the box.

No, and the advice here that says you can is wrong. Pancake boxes are not rated for fans.

What you can do is mount your fan bracket to the same wood/structure that the pancake box is screwed to.

Do not hang the fan from the box alone.

Do hang the fan bracket up through the box, into the structure above.