We had the same problem, water pressure too low and replaced our pressure tank and all is good

I don’t know, I would take the dog and just high-tail it to Mexico or something, live your best lives and start over.

How much do you really like this guy? Chances are with his new wife you guys aren’t even gonna be hanging out that much. I would forget that chump and throw my chips in with the dog.

I'm gonna disagree with all the "it's ruined" posts. It may not be "the right way" or look 100%, but wood glue and clamps then some wood putty (or even better, Bondo) to smooth out the rough spots will get you 90% of the way there.

If you're good with your putty (try using the edge of a putty knife to continue the fake "grain" lines) and sanding, you may not even be able to tell once it's painted.

No, and the advice here that says you can is wrong. Pancake boxes are not rated for fans.

What you can do is mount your fan bracket to the same wood/structure that the pancake box is screwed to.

Do not hang the fan from the box alone.

Do hang the fan bracket up through the box, into the structure above.

Automotive bondo, a sanding block and sandpaper, and a fresh coat of paint should get it sorted.

I did this to repair a door my BIL pried open with a crowbar when he forgot his key.

https://postimg.cc/nXNwmcKd

Structurally it should be fine. It’s almost definitely aggressively screwed into framing.

They’re a retake nuisance to install many fans on for a couple of reasons though. I’ve never had good luck with fans that had big radio receivers that come with remote control fans. There’s just too many wires to fit within the space of the pancake box.

Technically, according to the electrical code, that 4 inch pancake box is too small to accommodate 3 conductors plus ground, but it’s a bit of the code that’s routinely ignored.

Anything at all - even vegetable oil - is better than just letting it sit so long as it can get into the moving surfaces. So many people just ignore this stuff.

You can buy a U-shaped metal sleeve in almost any finish you want that goes over the edge of the door and both knob holes. Look up "door reinforcement plate". I'd still glue and clamp up the edge of that door just to clean things up and strengthen it as much as you can, but for $15 or less this drops right on in minutes.

I was in the same boat as you with our pantry that had a keyed lock. Some kid locked it and the key was MIA, and my door looked kinda like yours after bashing the knob off. The plate covered all the damage and tightened the door up nicely.

It looks like a pancake style electric box that is screwed to the rafter above it..It should hold a fan. Also, notice how shallow the box is. When you go to mount the mounting bracket for the fan (two screw) make sure they are not too long and bottom out on the box. You may have to buy shorter machine screws.

So you don’t want to hear this but you had all the tools to open this door. Clothes hanger hook behind the latch bolt and the flat screwdriver slowly prying it out of the jamb, maybe 0.025” at a time, but eventually you will expose the slanted face and can use the hook or knife to open it.

This latch bolt is only sprung- it’s not a deadbolt.

Super nice comment!

There are some trailer brake away devices that use a small 12v sealed 4 or 7 amp hour battery to provide backup power to the brakes if the vehicle gets disconnected. These will include a small battery charging circuit to prevent overcharging for the battery as well as a “sense” to only charge the batteries when the vehicle is running preventing the drive battery from going flat. This is usually accomplished with a relay or solenoid that will trigger when there is power to the other trailer lighting (search battery isolation relay). As always correct fusing must be provided to prevent faults in the trailer from effecting the drive vehicle as well as other precautions.

However, solar charge controllers are so inexpensive these days on Amazon that I’ve converted my cargo trailer and work truck to contain a 100W panel and a sealed lead acid battery with a small solar charge controller and I can’t go back. It’s worry free and self contained from the rest of the vehicle. Nothing more frustrating then troubleshooting trailer wiring or tail lights just to find it’s something to do with the charger or something silly…

I wouldn’t bother with DC-DC battery chargers unless you want to be charging larger batteries and then I think it would just be pointless since the trailer harness can only supply so much current usually somewhere between 5-15A

Sounds reasonable.

If you want to run lights in your horse trailer using a battery that charges while the trailer is hooked up, it's generally a good idea to use a charge controller to regulate the charging process and ensure safe and efficient charging of the battery.

Instead of using the "neutral wire," you'll need to connect the positive wire from the trailer adapter to the positive terminal of the battery, and the negative wire from the trailer adapter to the negative terminal of the battery. This will allow the battery to charge while the trailer is connected to a power source.

It's important to choose a battery that is appropriate for your needs and is designed for deep cycle use. You'll also need to make sure that the wiring between the battery and the lights is appropriately sized to handle the voltage and amperage of your system.

Overall, while it's possible to connect the battery directly to the trailer adapter, using a charge controller can help ensure safe and efficient charging and protect your battery and other electrical components.

I mistakenly referred to the "neutral wire" when I should have referred to the negative wire. The negative wire serves as the "return path" for the electrical circuit and completes the circuit back to the battery, rather than a "neutral wire" as found in AC systems

^ this. It can be be fixed to look very close to the original. An expert could get it to look indistinguishable.

What is your recommendation for a lubricant that doesn’t drip, and picks up less dirt than a grease, and lasts longer?

There is no "neutral" in DC wiring.

You typically use an isolation solenoid instead of a diode.

Nope. That Masonite will never be the same. Time to go door shoping

Seen and fixed worse. Glue and clamp back the wood, use woodfiller for any divots/scratches, sand, paint, then get a new handle with a larger panel that ideally screw into place. If not get four matching or complimentary screws, and carefully (and slowly, in spurts) drill some guide holes in the panel.

Silicon based

It’s toast. You’ll never get that to look original.

It’s toast. You’ll never get that to look original.

Minor nitpick, it's a rotary hammer, not a hammer drill.

Rotary hammer uses a special sliding bit called a SDS bit that moves back and forth. Only the bit moves. It also has a mode where it can hammer without spinning and use chisel bits for demolition.

Hammer drill uses a normal masonry bit in an adjustable chuck and has a mechanism in it to vibrate the entire chuck back and forth

Rotary hammer is really what you want for anything beyond just doing a couple 1/8" holes. Having both, a rotary hammer can do a 1/2" hole in a granite boulder faster than a hammer drill can do a 5/32" hole in brick.

Both are colloquially called "hammer drills" but you've got to make sure it's actually a rotary hammer and uses a SDS bit.