Good job on the pics. I would definitely just buy a new door. If you need advice on how to get the right one and how to install it you can DM me. I'll be happy to find a good video or two that will show you the steps.

Pics didn’t upload first time around. Here are a few pics of the door https://imgur.com/a/65WF0y7

It's pretty damn loud!

You can get something that sprays and do it from the floor. They're loud if they break, but the real danger is when they're being wound or unwound - they'll have no problem snapping an arm in half.

Doggo in the last pic https://imgur.com/a/65WF0y7

A photo would help but based on your description it might be fixable. However, interior door slabs are really cheap and I would just buy one, hang it, and paint it.

Sorry about that—pics didn’t upload first time around. Here are a few pics of the door https://imgur.com/a/65WF0y7

It would help to have a picture of the damage to the door. If it’s purely cosmetic damage it’s probably salvageable, but if the damage is a bit too much it could make the door weaker and more likely to break again in the future (without the help of a rubber mallet, that is).

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For the uninitiated https://xkcd.com/936/

You could build a small box wall that attached to the ceiling/floor. Literally just 4" thick (stud + drywall/shiplap).

Something like this: https://www.ana-white.com/woodworking-projects/easiest-shiplap-fireplace-tutorial-free-plans-and-video

Glad you got it off!!

If you're planning to use a battery to power the lights in your horse trailer, it's generally a good idea to use a charge controller to ensure that the battery is charged safely and efficiently. A charge controller helps regulate the charging process, which can help prevent damage to the battery and extend its lifespan.

In your case, it sounds like you'll be charging the battery using the AUX and neutral wires off the trailer adapter. Depending on the voltage and amperage of these wires, you may need to use a charge controller that is compatible with the input voltage and amperage of your power source. Additionally, make sure to choose a charge controller with the appropriate charging capacity for your battery to prevent overcharging or undercharging.

Another consideration is the size and type of battery you'll be using. Make sure to choose a battery that is appropriate for your needs, and that it is designed for deep cycle use (rather than a car battery, which is not recommended for this purpose). You'll also need to make sure that the wiring between the battery and the lights is appropriately sized to handle the voltage and amperage of your system.

Overall, while it's possible to connect the battery directly to the AUX and neutral wires, using a charge controller can help ensure safe and efficient charging, and can help protect your battery and other electrical components.

In picture 2, there are joists resting on top of the doorway/lintel above the doorway. If you can get a camera up there with a ladder, you may find a steel lintel hidden behind the blockwork to support whatever is on top of the joists (be it the roof or another floor of the property) If there is a steel lintel hidden and it is supported on both sides by blockwork and not just the timber studwork on the left, then you should be ok to remove the studwork to open the doorway further without needing to get someone in to fit a replacement lintel across the doorway to support the weight from above.

Regardless of whether there is a steel lintel hidden behind the blockwork, I would suggest (like others already have) you get professional eyes on the problem to give you complete peace of mind before doing anything structural to your property.

Excellent, thank you for your help.

The most important thing is to secure the battery using the Correct Horse Battery Staple.

The "giant" drill LaoWai is recommending is a Hammer Drill. Get the appropriate sized masonry bit for the anchors you'll be using when you rent it.

I think you have it right, assuming you're not connecting the two terminals together :)

Getting the right polarity on the diode may present a small challenge.

Cool. So the schema should be 7way AUX -> diode -> Battery terminal -> Battery terminal -> trailer frame correct?

I support the idea of an experienced eye seeing it in person. We bear no risk for not understanding the stress. If it's your investment and safety, I think professional assessment is money well spent.

Thanks. This is helpful!

I ended up having to use a ton of WD-40 and it finally budged. Thank you!

I too am relieved nobody said it's a leak because our house that we moved into like 3 years ago has a very similar tapping noise, happens when we shower and sometimes with our sinks. I haven't seen any water damage in all this time, so was hoping it was just thermal expansion. Definitely not water hammer, that's pretty distinctive sounding and really only happens right when the water is turned on.

So, with copious amounts of WD-40 this worked exactly as described. Thank you!

So i've got most of the parts thanks to you awesome guide! However, i can't find the exact same LED where i'm from. i did find a few that i like but they come in different voltages, there's a 3-6v and a 12-24v version. Which one do i choose then and why? Can it be dangerous if i pick the wrong one? And, i often see resistors being put in between the LED and batteries, is this for safety?