You shouldn't need a charge controller - the truck's alternator handles that, limiting the supplied voltage to 14V.

You might want to install a diode to prevent the trailer battery back-feeding the truck.

https://www.etrailer.com/faq-charge-trailer-battery-while-driving.aspx

The actual lithium grease is the consistency of a soft butter. It's very... greasy, for lack of a better word. I doubt it would dry out. That's the stuff you want for lubricating things properly. The spray stuff is a stopgap or for lubricating really hard to reach areas, in my experience.

Most automotive greases for joints etc. are a lithium base if I'm not mistaken.

[removed]

"WD40" means "The fortieth formulation we've tried for the purpose of shooting it into an oil well and occupying the space where the oil had been; must do this better than water just seeping into a void; in fact, must specifically do this better than water."

[removed]

Well, the good news is they're not broken, so you have time to decide what you're going to do in the future regarding replacement of the openers. A quality belt drive opener can be bought for $230-260 and you can install it yourself. Until you decide what you want to do, it's going to continue to be a bit noisy in your house a few times a day.

Keep in mind, a quality opener should last 20 years with no problems, and you'll use it several times a day, every day. so take this into consideration long term before you decide what you're going to do

If your house was built in 2001, I suspect it has PEX pipes, not copper as others speculated. In the end it’s the same issue, thermal expansion or vibration from pressure changes.

Check out this video: https://youtu.be/Xy9aJdX5xF0

Just fixed my garage door in 20 mins after this post. Thanks!

That is some janky construction going on there.
Do not remove anything until you get a professional in there to check it out. That blockwork seems to be supported by the "framing," but it isn't constructed appropriately, as far as I can tell from the pics.

Hire a contractor to check it out, it'll be worth the very little you will pay, and could save you a ton in repairs later.

Thermal expansion/ contraction. Same thing in my house. Hard to fix without opening walls as a rule. Not uncommon in production builds. Nothing to worry about.

It sounds like you're saying your wall is drywall, layer of foam, concrete.

Your drywall is adhered to the wall somehow which means you can use toggle bolts through it to hold your TV. Use a wall mount system that distributes the load by attaching to the wall through a wide rectangular frame (this is a common style), put a big toggle in each corner, and you'll be fine. If your mount is more of a point load, use the toggles to attach 2x4s or a 1'x4' rectangle of 3/4" plywood to the drywall (you could glue it for good measure) and bolt your mount to that. Drywall is a lot stronger that we give it credit for.

We were removing a large commercial duty flat panel monitor (metal case, heavy) held onto drywall with one of these mounts and toggle bolts in a space slated for demolition, and my tech forgot the tool to loosen the mount. Since the walls were coming down anyway, he figured he would just rip the monitor out of the wall. He was a hefty dude but those toggles and mount supported his full body weight plus the weight of the monitor and it took a lot of energetic yanking and shaking to get the drywall to break. When it did finally come down he took a good 2x3 section of wall with him.

No hate, this is one of the better options to start with, though I would add look for the silicone specialist wd-40 for something like a garage door

Garage door lube. A silicone spray. 10w30. Gun oil. Whatever you got really.

Don't use grease. Don't cover everything with fucking used motor oil. People who do that suck.

For the love of God don't do that. People who do this are universally hated by repair techs.

I think you've got this backwards. Grease is exactly what you want in open systems. Yes it does trap particles, but it moves them away from wear surfaces. Think differentials and drivetrain components. The only downside is you eventually lose grease and have to refill. In closed systems we generally prefer oils with a filter system. Think car engines. I do like dry lubes for chains, but grease has been the traditional answer for open systems for a long time. Grease will be just fine for a garage door.

If it was a leak it wouldn't only be heard when the water is moving truth the pipes. It would be constant. Most leaks aren't audible either, that's why they can be so destructive.

If you decide to use the expansion bolts I’d recommend renting the giant drill and concrete bit from Home Depot if you can. I installed a deck once and the rental drill made installing the bolts a breeze.

Top comment non-mod comment in this post: "3-in-1 garage door lube"

Top non-sponsored result for Google search: "3-in-1 garage door lube"

( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡° )

It's solid concrete.

• Your question does not include the research you've done to find an answer yourself, or why that research didn't answer your question.

This is a basic requirement so others do not spend time repeating your steps. It is not a judgement about your question being "too easy." We're looking for evidence that you've made an attempt yourself.

• Please do not use /r/DIY as your first stop for questions - we are not Google.

• Please search Google and /r/DIY to see if your question has been asked before. Check owners manuals, tech support forums or contact the manufacturer.

• Have you already done some basic research and are still stuck?

• Please include what research you have done in your question so that others do not repeat your steps.

• Consider posting your question in the sticky thread at the top of the subreddit.

• Ask your question in our Discord server in the appropriate channel.

Please read our guidelines before resubmitting.

If you believe this was a mistake, please message the moderators.

Most of my experience is with the spray stuff, from many manufacturers. I'm not sure if I've used non-spray stuff.

Thank you

Is it solid concrete, i.e a poured concrete wall, or cinder blocks? If solid, or the cinder blocks are filled, you can use red-head expansion bolts to fix a pressure treated 2x4 to the wall, the another with 3” screws and glue to come out the distance you need. If the cinder blocks are hollow you may be able to stick a 2x4 to it with a ton of pl500 and a few tapcons to hold it until the glue dries.

Edit. PL premium may be better

I needed work done on my door. They were very clear: go with the one that says “garage door lube”