I am imagining a poor copper pipe, alone in the wall, trembling and sweating from the massive effort of filling a giant toilet tank all by themselves.

In reality, though, pipes don't "vibrate from the struggle." Indeed, pipes don't "struggle" at all. In this case, I'd put a few bucks down on the "thermal expansion" theory.

Sounds like expansion and contraction due to temp differential.

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1. When pipes run hot water they sometimes make clicking or knocking noise as they expand.

2. It’s possible you have flexible pvc pipes that can move a little when the water pressure increases or decreases.

3. Any of the things already listed.

Could be a vibrating pipe or a in wall air valve.

It could be pipes rattling from poor pressure as it tries to pump water into the toilet tank. Could be that someone closed the valve at the wall so water is struggling to get through. Have you tries opening the valve under the toilet a little?

Could it be some odd “water hammer” situation? If anything might need bleeding, doing that might improve matters.

It's probably just the water pipes rattling around in the wall. I know that my water pipes rattle around because I can see them on the floor joists in my basement.

Right, the lintel is off center to the door. If the opening were enlarged to the right, you'd probably get away with it.

Good advice. I might take call around and see what the going rate is for a structural engineer.

If I had to guess, I’d say that the 2x8s are just there to make door installation easier for the carpenter, but without being there, I can’t guarantee that.

Does it matter that there is a 2x8 at each side of the entry way which is bracing the additional 2x8 wood header spanning the entire length?

Based on your description and the photos I think you would be fine removing the framing box and adding another wide stud (you mentioned 2x10). You could probably find a structural engineer who works with architects you could pay for an hour to come look and give you professional advice. IMO it would be worth the cost for the peace of mind. I've done a lot of work like that but I would not modify structural work on a living space without an engineer's input.

If your lintel (metal header) doesn’t span from block to block, then your wooden post is structural, and cannot be removed without installing a longer lintel.

Well I don't see what you mean about the metal header. I just see the wooden header and it appears to span the width of the original opening. As long as you don't plan to add a door back in the space I think it'll be okay.

FastLED makes it much easier. There are a lot of sketches you can load up and tweak, and the community support is awesome.

Great idea, that rock with a full color set of RGB's would be amazing. I really need to learn more about setting up and programing an Arduino. That really unlocks truly unlimited DIY possibilities. Put a microphone on the board and program it to pulse colors to music.

I used corrugated plastic sheets doing something similar to what you're aiming to.

First I built-up the frame screwing 10mm (3/8") ply strips to the edges and then i screwed the coraplast to the ply.

For the doors, same thing, ply frame with diagonal strips to add rigidity and keep everything square, coraplast on top, plastic handles and thin folding hinges or a strip of piano hinge.

You can then use thin plastic angle profiles to make the corners prettier or simply use silicon sealant.

I couldn't be happier about the the way they turned out. Reversible, extremely lightweight, durable and super easy to clean.

You can hire it out.

https://www.homeflooringpros.com/carpet-stretching-cost/

Former floor covering installer; it’s literally a 30 minute job, maybe less. The carpet has become stretched which does occur over time. The affected area just needs to be detached from the tackstrip, restretched a bit and reattached. I would recommend finding a local installer who does side jobs. If I were to take on a task such as this I’d charge about $50-$75. A person could peel up the carpet and just use a knee kicker but that will not stretch the carpet properly and the problem may reappear in a couple of years. Hope this helps.

You can tape cheap shower curtains around the back and sides. If you can’t find cardboard big enough for one door you can have two doors. Or each shelf have its own door.

I just want you to know that the exclamation point at the end of your heading was the tipping point for me leaving this community because of poor-quality content.

I would cut the drywall so that you can frame a proper opening -- a frame that will let you firmly attach the ceiling portions, with enough overlap to firmly fasten drywall to the inside of the opening.

THEN, use drywall J-channel around the perimeter of the opening and around the perimeter of the filler piece.

When you install the filler piece, you'll have nice straight edges and a tight professional looking seam. It can all be painted in the ceiling color and not that noticeable. If there ever are any plumbing problems, the middle panel can be cut out and removed and a new one made.

The OTHER OPTION would be to find some kind of ventilation grate the same size as, or bigger than the hole. Paint everything behind the grate black and install it. Everyone will assume it's supposed to be there.

Contact a local furnace or appliance shop and see if they have leftover boxes.

All the above. The only thing I would add is to STRONGLY consider RGB's. That will let you change the colors. If you run it off an Arduino, you can even program custom colors, patterns, and cycles.

Check out r/fastled. I've used fastled to customize my Christmas lights.