There's no "Universal" set but what you can find is what's called "Slip-joint" or brand name "Channel-Loc" pliers. They'll fit pretty much anything. Vice-Grip is another brand but the teeth on them are very sharp. Great for removing, not so good for installing.

I think my issue when I tried last time was that the pliers I had didn’t ‘fit’ around the nut or I couldn’t get it to budge.

I’ll try again. Is there a universal set of pliers that fit everything?

Thanks man. This is really helpful btw.

Piece of cake. 15 minutes to swap and we do that all the time. You want to find a "showerhead kit" like this one. Then you'll unscrew the existing showerhead. You can see the teflon tape on your current shower head? Using pliers you grab the old showerhead on the larger-diameter portion and turn counter-clockwise to unthread it.

You also need a small roll of Teflon tape. You'll put 2 wraps of tape on the threads of the shower pipe and thread the new shower head on. Tighten fully. If you need to use pliers to tighten put a towel between the pliers and the new shower head to help prevent scratches.

Most heads are a standard thread and easily removable by hand. Sometimes a small wrench might be needed. The hose kits are readily available wherever plumbing supplies are sold, and typically fit on the standard threaded outlet.

Pavers are the absolute wrong choice here. Do you have a crawlspace and not a basement?

One of those 'one size fits all' sockets might work. First time I'm ever recommending one of those.

You could try different sized nut drivers. If you can find a size that "grips" the edges when lowered onto the head of the standoff, you can possibly use it to turn it, as if you were using a socketed wrench. This is a technique auto mechanics use.

Drill a 1/8" hole down the riveted end. Squish the peened-out wings of the rivet together with vise grips. Punch it out. Take the gear to a small machine shop and ask for a flat disc of delrin bored and machined to the same OD. Trace the existing gear onto a piece of maskiing tape, slap that on your disc and bandsaw and file the profile.

It's a 9 tooth gear with what looks like a 14.5 degree pressure angle. A dividing head (and I'd guess module 3 cutter) will get you very close if you have a milling machine. You don't even need to have dividing plates because with 9 teeth your divisions are bang on 40 degrees apart- you could just paste on a printed sticker of a protarctor and work to its lines. http://www.banggood.com/8pcs-Module-3-PA14_5-Bore22mm-1-8-HSS-Involute-Gear-Milling-Cutter-p-1012467.html

Are you trying to restore the bike with all-original parts, or do you just want a functional speedometer/tach? If you're just looking for a speedometer/tach, then get a cheap bicycle tach with a magnet you stick on a spoke.

It drives the speedo cable. It would be cheaper to grab a display and proximity sensor to count revolutions of the wheel than to build this gear. It has to be ridiculously tall-toothed to register in the perforated disc- looks like a 14.5 degree pressure angle and no longer a standard gear profile. Pretty easy to just bore a flat disc of delrin to the same OD and bandsaw&file the teeth- it doesn't need to be perfect.

I just made a similar gear out of brass, using a milling machine and a dividing head.

The problem with this gear is that you are unlikely to find a replacement; it looks like a 14.5 degree pressure angle and most gear shops are set up for 20 degrees or higher. Ther's nothing available off the shelf. I could make this gear, but it would be a $450 gear.

Is that nylon? You could have a replacement 3D printed.

This might work:

https://www.bicycleheaven.org/products/bicycle-speedometer-drive-stewart-warner-vintage-nos

Otherwise looks like its permanent and you'd need to hammer it out.

Ah, okay. I will agree with the person who said it looks like a peened part - pin and hammer, or still it out

Excellent, thank you. I will try the hammer and punch.

What does that gear do? It is too small to be transmitting a ton of torque, so I am assuming it is to transmit the speed or distance that has been traveled.

I would probably replace that gear with a 3D printed one because I think you will have a hard time finding a replacement.

I didn't see the second pic. That looks like it was peened on so the gear is probably on a flanged axle that would not come off unless you removed the axle from the bracket.

You might be able to get it off by using a hammer and a punch to try and narrow the side in the second pic so it will fit through the hole. Then have to peen it back on later. Or you could grind/file off the end sticking out in the second picture, but would likely have to replace that axle pin afterwards.

Not a snap ring, unfortunately. That’s just the top of the brass fastener, it has a tubular body that passes through the gear. The second picture shows how the other side of the fastener.

Yes, I’ve already removed that one, I mean the smaller broken gear.

Can't tell for sure with all the dirt on it, but it could be a snap ring. It doesn't look like it uses the same e-clip as the other gear to the left is using.

It looks like it's held in place with an e-clip. Use a small flathead screwdriver between the shaft and the clip to jimmy it off, then the gear should slide off.

However, if his setup is like mine (and I don't know why mine would be unique), testing the TV and finding no TV signal wouldn't preclude there not being internet available. Plus, if there *is* internet at that location, he needs to move his modem there anyway, may as well do it right and test the thing you want to test (will modem work there), not something similar (is there TV signal there). On top of that, if the wire isn't connected to *anything*, he'll need to test the modem there to rule out the situation being like mine.

I wasn't trying to correct anyone's statement...I was trying to show how:
a. He may come to the wrong conclusion using a TV to check
b He may end up doing double the work--testing with a TV, and then having to test with the modem and move the modem there anyway if the TV tests out with signal.

Like all internet advice, opinions and experiences, one needs to see how the similarities apply to oneself and how the differences need to be accounted for.

I've been in a similar situation with my basement. Cracking thin layer of concrete straight on the soil. I removed all the concrete, dug out the soil to fit proper, insulated floor and gain some height and poured the concrete. Basement only had small windows but, since I was doing the whole house, I turned one of them into external door with stairs. A lot of work but best decision ever.

To answer the question. The main issue with lack of external door is getting rid of old concrete and soil underneath and it looks like you have to do it because of limited height. When this is done pouring concrete is a breeze as it gets mixed outside and pumped inside with a pipe (through a window). It's one of those jobs that are better/cheaper done by a pro instead of diying. Putting pavers after removing old concrete would be pointless imo.

Have you asked any local concrete places? A lot of them can pump in concrete

Is the current floor with the 1-2" french drain all the way round holding the walls? How?