No radon. With the french drain, we'd be swimming in it already if there were.

Pavers are not structurally sound, your exterior wall would start moving. Better off tearing out old concrete in sections and pouring new floor. Check out YouTube you will find how to’s video. Also you put in drain tile on the interior of the foundation with a pit and sump pump. Good luck

The walls are block, but I assume they were laid on concrete footings. The first thing I would do is have the footings inspected; then make a decision about the floor.

My thoughts on the floor would be dependent on a long term radon test. If you have radon, then sealing the floor becomes a much higher priority than the amount of effort required.

No, you place a metal strip over it. That's how professional window & door installers like me do it in Europe.

Like this

The door jamb should have been wider, probably a special order. I had the same problem, including the concrete porch pulling away. I was able to extend the jamb and I don't think anyone notices it. I had to chip out the concrete porch to get the new door to fit. Just so it didn't look like the porch was patched a new porch project was initiated. That was pricey but makes the house POP. The door salesman never asked any questions other than "door swing direction." If he had asked the question about jamb width I would have jumped at the chance to make it right without the "fixes". The porch material salesman was a real pro. Spent a lot of time with him and he sold me all the materials from base, new sidewalk pavers, step treads, porch slabs, cap blocks, adhesives, etc. There is so much to learn as a DIYer. Methods and materials are always changing. I wish you well with your project. I think I would use a PVC trim piece where the brick molding meets the brick. Check with the door manufacturer. You may be able to remove the brick molding and replace with a different size.

Even easier, use painted steel. You can find it ready made from any decent ironmonger shop.

And it's a good idea to do so. Trust, but verify.

Thank you. I bought the basic $29. version of Honeywell and have it working already. But I would love a programmable in the future. Thanks for the response. Now I know why the ones in the past did not work.

Same I had to do a mesh as well. My WiFi won’t even reach my office in the basement. My house is a raised ranch with an addition. Basically shake like and L on a hill. The modem is on one point of the L, first floor. My office (with pc), is basement on the the opposite point of the L. The eero mesh was the only way I can get WiFi to the basement. But by the time it reaches my computer the speeds are slower. Running a CMD ping test to google I was getting 90ms with spikes to 200ms. Playing games (which me and my son do) we get timed out and disconnected non stop. And games like Rust that’s really bad to have happen.

Not all setups ate like that, though, and OP might have a TV more readily available. And, and, and...if there is a TV signal, there will be an internet signal. Also, it's easier (faster) to see if the TV has signal than waiting for the modem to fail a handshake

Yeah it did work pretty well. I’ve called the eero company and tried to work through the problems I’m having on getting a good signal with my desktop and nothing really worked. But yea basically we DC due to time outs in online games and am experiencing a bunch of packetloss. I’ve spent weeks calling ISP and Eero and testing stuff out and came seem to fix it which is why I game to the conclusion I want the modem downstairs with the pc’s.

Thank you

My setup has a filter so that no TV signal goes to the split that feeds the modem, but there's no filter on the TV ones. So, a TV signal MIGHT also have the internet signal, but no TV signal doesn't automatically mean that there's no internet.

There shouldn't be high voltage or anything that would ruin the mode, so give it a try. It's easier to move your modem and router than a TV and THEN your modem and router.

Mostly I see them just run the cable directly to the cable modem and they don't use the old houses interface at all.

It's really a lot more practical because you're eliminating a lot of the chances for problems and callbacks and Wi-Fi and Wi-Fi mess these days very few people need a hardwired connection to their cable modem.

If the house is that old I would expect the cable modem to be run directly not interface with the likely oldet cable TV/Antrnna wires.

I was a cable guy coming to install cable at your home I wouldn't want to trust your existing wires I would just want to run a new wire right to one spot.

And simple and one point of failure equals vastly less chance for a call back and as an installer of anything that's what I'm all about!

Isn't that like a mesh system where you can put another access point between the two and improve the network because you know a Wi-Fi mess Network should be stable and fast.

The only reason you should need hardwired is like because you're a professional gamer.

It sounds like you're not getting the most out of your current setup already and you should maybe think about how to make that work better first because I don't think it's set up right.

It also be you have some very odd interference like you have a wall with a whole bunch of metal stuff hung on it or something. I've seen that in some houses where they like have a bunch of metal plaques or pots on the wall which are really decoration but fake Rustic Stuff.

Why would you be getting a huge benefit from hardwiring your cable modem versus a modern Wi-Fi setup?

Do you have like a really old Wi-Fi modem or router?

I can get my full cable modem bandwidth right to my iPhone through Wi-Fi so and you know like my desktop doesn't go any faster than that hardwired.

Might be a tiny tiny difference in pain but by far the pain between me and like a game server is determined by my internet provider and the physical distance between me and the game server.

Modern Wi-Fi is pretty fast! Days it's like streaming 4k on everyone's television so it's not the Wi-Fi of years ago.

I'm just using a Google mesh router which really isn't a super powerful setup because it doesn't have the greatest signal, but I have a spread out how so I had to do something meshy.

Coax can be TV only because it's like old coax for an antenna or old coax that was hooked up to a satellite system or some other system that isn't connected to like new coaxial cable wiring.

Times when they come in with the cable modem they just run a brand new line right to the cable modem instead of using the existing houses cable TV wires.

Sometimes they wired into the houses TV wiring but basically that's more prone to having problems doesn't really give a lot of advantages since most people don't need to move their cable modem around much.

You can try, last I remembered it doesn't hurt the modem but if it doesn't have the filter installed in that line then it won't connect.

There's not much practical benefit to a hardwired cable modem versus a decent wifi setup.

I would probably run an ethernet cable through the crawl space or attic or such if I really wanted to do that and then leave the cable modem where it was and install a switch on the other end in the bedroom.

If it's a Wi-Fi cable modem then it's kind of like better off centrally located or right next to the centrally located Wi-Fi router.

Jamb wasn’t deep enough. Pull off the mould and replace with a nice bit of trim.

It's in the video too. Forgot to mention

Heatbend pvc. Seal. :)

There are other brands too. The azek ones have a textured finish which you may not want. For simplicity, I'd just go get 1.5" wide, smooth pvc exterior trim boards. Then miter them around the existing brick mold. You could glue it to the brick(use something exterior rated with instant grab hold time) and shoot a few finish nails through it into the existing brick mold. I think taking it apart is opening a can of worms. It's doubtful anyone but you will notice the difference anyway.

Think they meant "tape" for a clean edge

So basically carve the foam out a bit and squeeze some mortar in there. Not a bad idea.

What is tap mounding?