Or crappy paint. They are still just adhesive, so if the surface's paint is cheap it can always pull off that way. Cheap contractor latex might pull off.

Monkey hooks or Gorilla hooks. They look like the top of a wire coat hanger. You punch a hole in the drywall with the sharp end, spin the hook around and feed it into the wall. They leave a tiny hook on the outside to hang your item. When you’re done, you remove them in reverse and they leave a tiny, tiny hole that’s easy to plug.

Good to know!

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The worked ok on some rough textured paneling inside an RV, the adhesive is soft enough to push down into the groves. In my experience they mostly do fine unless the wall surface is innately/renewingly dusty (concrete, plaster, etc) that will come back even if it's cleaned first.

Wouldn't that grate allow rain water to drain directly into the room? Is there sufficient drainage in the room to deal with that?

But that's kind of my point, so what? You're allowed to hang photos in an apartment. If you're there for any appreciable time they're going to repaint anyway. And if the walls are the typical shade of white or beige you don't even necessarily need to use touchup.

If your landlord has an issue with nail holes that small then you're in for a painful tenancy.

Best of luck to you.

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This. Command strips work well on plaster/sheetrock walls. Can't speak for surfaces that might be rougher personally.

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My guess would be an apartment.

For discussion sake, why do picture nail holes bother you? I ask because I just went through this with my mom, who didn't want to put nail holes in her newly remodeled place. It took some convincing that you can just dab some spackle in most holes and not even need touch-up paint. Large picture frames need bigger nails, but even then, dab some spackle and a little touch-up paint.

Command strips are nice and all, but I wouldn't trust them for a heavy frame, and they don't come off so neat and clean after several years.

The amount of airflow you would need to dry out a cellar like that would mean opening up the entire floor.. why not just utilize a dehumidifier?

Those 3M removable adhesive mounts work pretty well within their weight limits, and can anchor hooks and things too.

Someone with welding experience could make a robust grate for that opening.

Also know that transparent epoxy yellows over time. Confirm that your floor is fully level. Or the epoxy with flow all to one side/corner. And consider the scratch resistance of the epoxy- will it get scratched up over time from furniture and look not so good? I would also wonder if you window and direct sunlight, will it heat up the washers and burn bare feet? (like at the beach) I’ve worked with epoxy before in my basement and due to temp or human error it partially cured and it was sticky gummy mess and a nightmare and I won’t touch it again.

OP — this is excellent advice

The other option is see if you can just fit a a 3.5mm jack in there. Then its never an issue again and if they get pulled on it just disconnects. Also usb 2.0 cables have enof wires for this (4) fyi and there cheap and easy to get hold of.

To answer your question directly, You'd need a lot of clear epoxy suitable for a 3/8" pour depth. This would be your main cost.

Then, you'd be best-off picking up either hexagonal washers or low-profile hex nuts. You'll run about $3.19 for 100 of them from McMaster-Carr (Product 91078A205 )

Technically speaking, they're cheaper than pennies. About 3 times cheaper. The nuts will be only about 0.45" across, though.

Gotcha. I I personally wouldn’t want that type of floor in a kitchen anyways

The issue isn’t with the cabinets, it’s with the floor not being able to expand/contract/float because of the weight of the cabinets on it. How big of an issue this is will depend on the size of the room

you could buy a cable that has a 3.5mm stereo plug on one end and two RCA plugs on the other end. cut off the RCA plugs, expose the copper, route them through the headphones and solder. use zip ties as mentioned earlier as strain relief. i did this when i recabled my brother's Sennheiser HD201. want a better 3.5mm plug? find a Neutrik branded one.

There is no problem putting cabinets on any flooring. They are screwed to the studs. Source: I used to do this professionally for a company contracted by home depot. there were very strict "best practices" in order to avoid any call backs, and going on top of any flooring is not an issue.

If the cabinets are installed on top of the tile, there is no issue getting the dishwasher in. Dishwashers are all made to fit perfectly under a 34/5" cabinet, and have room for leveling.