Recent comments in /f/DIY

TootBreaker t1_jalprpy wrote

P-trap is too low. Water has to stand up way above the trap before reaching the single outlet on the wall. Which means you'll never be able to take the trap apart without dumping a lot of excess water

I'd have two traps because I don't want to smell that horizontal section full of food scraps & grease

And would it be too late to build your under cabinet like a shower stall, complete with floor drain & overhead work light?

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FreeXFall t1_jalas2v wrote

No, but I take that as a huge compliment. Our first and now second house have both been fixer uppers. Lots of nights and weekends fixing or watching YouTube’s. Plumbing is something I actually really enjoy (I think it’s all the pieces so it’s like adult legos). I hate electrical though - I have large hands and just fumble with the wires.

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Most-Region8151 t1_jakbdko wrote

Take a piece of wood the same thickness. Mark 2" on your line of cut on top of the board. Cut to the mark. Remove board, flip over and use a square to transfer the end of the kerf to the edge of the board. Do the same with the original 2" mark on top. The distance between the two lines is what you need to hold the top cut back by.

i.e. if the bottom kerf is 2 1/2" you would stop cutting 1/2" before the end. Then finish up with jig saw or whatever.

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nhskimaple t1_jajxquv wrote

IRC section 311.7.11 have a read through that.

Brad nails are a monstorous no in this construction. If it’s all of solid wood lean toward white oak or at the least Douglas fir. Through bolt the treads by extending them back to overlap the stringers OR create triangle wedges that are bolted to stringers then downward fasten treads through and plug holes.

There are other suggestions on cutting I’d recommend the table saw undercut and then Japanese hand saw or standard very sharp handsaw to finish. Cutting all this is the easy part the assembly is what will take a long time.

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SirIsaacGnuton t1_jajtdn3 wrote

Agree with the advice you have so far. You don't give dimensions but that angled cut is definitely going to be more than a 10" blade can give you. Maybe the short cut that joins it is possible with a 10"? I've built jigs for this kind of cut before. You need a solid one to hold a stair tread firmly and vertical.

I see no problem with finishing the cut with a jigsaw with a fresh blade and then taking a wide chisel to clean it up.

If you watch woodworking videos you'll see that no matter how well equipped someone's shop is, they're always pulling out a chisel to clean up a mortise, shoulder cut, or whatever. Chisel skills put you at the next level woodworking wise.

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