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Understood. Table saw with a zero-clearance insert makes very nice, splinter-free cuts.

I'd process them like this: run all of the rip cuts to a set stop, then change your setup to mitered crosscuts with a set stop. Run all of the mitered crosscuts, then finish off with a jigsaw or a quality hand saw/pull saw like others have mentioned.

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Instead of overcutting on the underside, undercut the length of each cut. Finish with a good quality handsaw.

You can cut them on your table saw using a miter gauge up to a certain point, but you will have to finish the cut with a jigsaw to keep the cut clean.

It may be safer for you to cut the whole thing with a jigsaw and a straightedge.

You could make an angled jig for your table saw track and you could make the cuts about 99% of the way and finish with a hand saw to avoid the over cut underneath. You could put a stop block to stop the wood from going too far on the saw

If it’s perfectly horizontal or even slopes a tad the wrong way, it’s not really an issue. If you don’t use it for a few days it could start to smell, but once you use it, any of the water that was sitting will flush out.

Saying that, to get a slight downward slope - cut one of the tailpieces to be slightly shorter than the other. Just a small amount is enough to give a slope. (Tailpiece goes from the metal sink drain to everything else).

BTW, sometimes it's not possible without special short connectors or flexible drain tubes (which might not be legal where you are.) This just happens because when it was built, they built it for what they installed. (A cursory look seems as though flexible drain pipes are allowed in Australia.)

Thank you !

Good diagram, thanks !

I would use something like this

https://7.allegroimg.com/original/03e66e/778b6b9d4392a11320c61d50f337/Syfon-do-zlewu-podwojny-rurowy-przelew-zmywarka-EAN-GTIN-5901095512391

IT hase also connection for washing machine...

I’m in Australia, so we have Bunnings which are the equivalent and essentially have that sort of pipe piece available, I had just read with double sinks that one should directly go to the exit, and the secondary sink should attach to that main pipe. The piping would be slightly different in that configuration if you could imagine, but if you’re saying the first suggestion works I can do that.

I just don’t know how to get a proper slope from the 90 degree pipe bends, the connector pipes would be horizontal before hitting the Tee piece from both sinks. I thought it might be a minor issue, but if not I might head with your suggestion. Thanks.

If you’re in America - Home Depot has double sink kits. You can Google and YouTube for it as well.

I feel like both your suggestions are the same thing. Big thing is - working backwards - it goes exit to a p trap. It doesn’t really matter if you have a primary and the other sink joins or if both sinks join and then go to the P.

Connect both to a T-piece, connect that to the P trap

You don't NEED one, until you need it to be a ground fault circuit interrupter and it doesn't go to ground.

Good point. That way, you won't bend the shaft?

Find the installation/owner's guide for your specific door/automatic closer on the manufacturer's website. It should have all the instructions you need for adjusting it.

Most auto-closing doors are adjustable to some extent, which helps in cases like this when someone wants to leave it open since they'll be going in and out constantly.

Have someone hold a heavy hammer near the end for backing as you drive the pin out with a hammer and appropriate sized punch.

What's on the right side of the dishwasher? If there is a base cabinet filler face frame spacer panel anywhere on that base cabinet run, just either remove it, or reduce its width with a table saw. Then you can shift the dishwasher to the right, by an inch or two. Then, put an end filler panel right next to the oven, with a 1 or two inch face frame filler piece. This new end panel with face filler will allow you to build a 3/4" thick sub counter, to support your new counter. This is how it should have been done to begin with.

I've built a few dozen kitchens, including my own. I see a lot of Mickey mouse, hair assed ideas posted above here, LoL

Ah right, so you have removed the gear, but can't get the snapped off plastic out of the shaft?

Wood filler like ProBond. Over fill it, shape it/sand it, paint

You could just move it over, and try to cover the holes with what you are hanging. If you want it there, you could drill out and glue in corresponding dowels. Allow to dry, chisel and sand flush with surface. Drill pilot hole and screw. If what you're hanging isn't too heavy, typical wall plugs will work fine as well.

Chalk paint in a lighter color with a darker way overlay.

That contracts over time, not a good solution

Bingo. A/c running non stop in august.