Recent comments in /f/DIY

fogobum t1_jaetr41 wrote

I fearlessly face your downvoting.

If you get a positive test, you become obligated to deal with asbestos in accordance with the law. If you use an effective respirator, use enough drop cloths, and thoroughly wet down the work area, you can claim a lack of mens rea, AND, there's no record of your iniquities.

WHEN ignorance is bliss, THEN it's folly to be wise.

−7

Low-Rent-9351 t1_jaes6il wrote

Second picture down on this page. Cut it and wedge a shim or two into it so it comes out lined up with the others.

https://joneakes.com/jons-fixit-database/1991-Straightening-2x4-x27-s-in-a-stud-wall

drive a screw or two into it angled across the cut to hold it together after.

2

fried_clams t1_jaerwcu wrote

Have you used an actual, correctly sized, high quality pin punch? I'm betting the right sized punch would work. Remove the gear, so you are sure you are hitting the actual pin. Apply heat to the shaft if the pin is stuck. Try from the other side, if the pin is peened on one side.

10

lumberman10 t1_jaerf3h wrote

There are clips to attach to the wall that actually hold the ceiling drywall. Then the ceiling floats over that area. Or in my case it was down a hallway (walls on both sides with a 4 ft wide hallway,) Went up and put studs across the hallway that were attached to the walls. Then screw into that for ceiling drywall. Remove screws/ nails on ceiling that are screwed into the roof truss. Finally that solved my son's truss uplift issues. His was right in the middle of the house and would lift up 3/8 of a inch in the winter. Also make sure your attic ventilation is up to code. And correctly done.

1

Partly_Dave t1_jaeqnfp wrote

I made the mistake of painting a popcorn ceiling. I didn't want to remove it because I could see the formwork lines on a damaged part. I managed to fix that by scraping some off elsewhere, which I mixed with drywall mud and patched it.

It soaks up paint like a sponge. I was using a spray gun, but even then, I had to use a roller to force it into all the little craters.

It took 120L of paint to get decent coverage.

Would not recommend.

2

WealthyMarmot t1_jaeqi3w wrote

They're not separate breakers. If my understanding is correct, it's just a single-pole, but someone ran a 12/3 from a switch to outside so that there's an optional switched hot in case someone wants to install a switched outlet (like OP does). The hots are on the same phase, unlike a MWBC.

Two GFCIs should work totally fine here. The neutral at each outlet is clean.

5

Azozel t1_jaepo73 wrote

Sort of this.

Pull the white gear off the rod first (I assume it comes off since the question infers it does. If it doesn't come off easily, release the tension on the belt first before pulling it off)

Drill out the stuck pin slowly, use a little oil in the spot you're drilling.

Replace gear and align with pin hole. Replace pin

30

AccomplishedEnergy24 t1_jaepn1h wrote

Reply to comment by WealthyMarmot in Adding outside GFCI by Unlikely_Play

You actually can't safely share a neutral between two different GFCI's with different hots, and run them to separate breakers - the neutral here will carry the difference between the two hots (and even if that was safe, it would trip the GFCI). The proper way to do it is a dual pole GFCI breaker.

This is the only safe way to get 2 15/20 amp GFCI protected circuits out of this situation. This is a standard MWBC application.

If you share a breaker, there is no point to using multiple GFCI's, may as well use one and run the other downstream, and ignore the extra hot.

0

zolstarym t1_jaep5v7 wrote

I would recommend a gfci breaker rather than gfci outlets. That way the whole line is protected. Make sure both the red and black go to the same breaker.

6

AccomplishedEnergy24 t1_jaep52l wrote

If you share a breaker (IE double tap a single breaker, rather than a single tandem breaker), there is no point in the extra GFCI. You gain nothing but work. You should ignore the extra hot in that case. You don't need it to switch the outlet.

If you want two 20 amp circuits out of this, it's a multi-wire branch circuit.

You can't share a neutral between two separately protected GFCI's if you use standard GFCI outlets (IE you can't run each hot + shared neutral to two different circuits with single-outlet GFCI's).

You can do it with a dual pole GFCI breaker instead.

https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/20364/can-i-share-the-neutral-in-12-3-cable-between-two-gfi-circuits-with-different-cu goes into detail about this.

Dual pole GFCI breakers can be expensive - like 120 bucks.

1

tigerCELL t1_jaeoyk7 wrote

What do you mean by wood color? If you mean stain it to a lighter wood like bamboo, oak, or pine, then no. You can't. You'd have to laminate it with a veneer. If you mean paint the shelf a solid color, then you'd just need primer and paint.

20

chikasaurus t1_jaeorz5 wrote

If you search “picture hanging kits”, you can find kits that include different kinds of hooks that’ll attach to your frame and then you can hang on the wall with a nail, or attach a wire and then hang on the wall using the wire.

Kits are usually big though (multiple hooks, wires, etc.) so might be better to go to a hardware store and buy the pieces individually once you know what ya want.

1

DJ_Spark_Shot t1_jaenucx wrote

The switch will trip the GFI if connected. Outdoor should already have a GFI on the un-switched circuit. You can't run 2gfi on the same circuit, so be sure there isn't another outlet on that circuit. They can get pretty weird, particularly on 50's-70's construction.

My deck outlet is run through the GFI in the master bath, the half bath is run through the basement/ sump gfi and the kitchen isn't protected so we're having to get a gfi panel breaker during the upcoming remodel.

−1