Ahh so you are cutting back the studs that are touching the level as opposed to installing shims on studs that are not touching the level

Prep wood, primer, and paint. You may need a couple of coats.

re-asking a removed post:

Should a noob be trying to install Herringbone hardwood floor? (self.DIY)

I'm not a professional, but I did install laminates twice so far (and baseboards ) in the house.

On the main floor, however, my wife would like Herringbone (engineered maybe) hardwood. I do not have experience with the nailer nor with the pattern itself, though from youtube it doesn't look too bad of a thing. A bit tricky at the ends, but not fantastically so, it seems.

Am I wrong to try and attempt such a project or should I better leave it to the professionals.

I'm going to go out on a limb here and say the massive deep pit and the mounds of dirt almost touching the floor joists are related to each other.

I’m not sure I’m quite visualizing this? Any way to elaborate a bit?

Never leave screws loose so the drywall isn't held tight to the stud unless you like fixing screw pops later.

Carbide is great against hardened steel. SDS Masonry bits are amazing at it (Obviously, you don't want any impacts or hammer action, and also you'll struggle to find an SDS carbide bit small enough... Plus you will almost certainly want to use this on a pillar drill (which isn't really an issue with a chuck adapter or something that's atleast more precise than your hands.) The dewalt cobalt standard twist drills are another good option.

As you say, depending on what this gear is moving, Epoxy would probably work a treat.

Looks like a pinned press fit gear. I would lube it and grab a small gear puller and remove. Push/pull the pin from the other side and repress the gear on and re pin.

The red is switched and the black isn't. It's a light and utility circuit.

Tattoo a string around the scar, and you'll never forget it. . .

You put a cut 1/2 way or so into the low side of the stud in the middle of the stud height wise then put a shim into the cut from each side and hammer them in until the stud is even with the others on each side of it. Or, pull it as you jam the shims in to hold it.

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Potato/Potatoe

It is regional, but I usually refer to "crown" when referring to joists and bow when referring to studs or raw framing lumber.

In example: Joists should always be crowned up. Studs can be bowed in either direction, but the direction should be the same for all the studs in a single wall.

Agree. This looks pretty much absolutely perfect.

Pun not intended but shocking!

This is the way..... that I did it once in the past and it worked well for me. I believe I used the Ace branded green cap. Notes are: break-up the work into 1h increments due to arm fatigue. It's a real mess, so prep with plastic, including runners outside of the work area for wet/white bootprints. Wear a hat when removing the wet popcorn.

Buddy you're fine. especially if you use 5/8 gyproc.

if it reallllly bothers you, give the stud a cut and shim/screw to straighten

Nope. Doesn't sound bad at all. There are a few devils here and there! (Mainly behind the drywall.)I can honestly say that while pros would have done a much better job, it's all really good. Especially given that there are huge issues with things being un-level and out of square. As an example, the room floor actually slopes down from the shower to the door. It drops about 1" over 8'.

I could have either raised the low side up (then there would have been a step going into the room) or dropped the shower side down (which would have required cutting down the joists).

Or we could do what we did which was make sure the floor was as flat as possible even if it wasn't level. Compromises stink but are often required.

Almost all of the grout lines are straight and consistent. The exception being the herringbone wall in the shower. That was our first herringbone ever and was a huge learning experience. The backsplash wall went great and looks much better. There is almost no tile lippage anywhere. (Used leveling clips on the wood tile in the shower and on the floor.)

Ok. Just for future reference. You don’t need to drill holes in pine like that if the screws aren’t near the butt end of the board. And pine is soft enough any screw will go right in. Also you pre drill holes don’t have to be so close screw size. You only need a hole like half the size of screw.

But for your current problem you can either move the mount over 1-2 inches left/right or up/down.

Or use these anchors https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-4-in-x-3-in-Zinc-Plated-Toggle-Bolt-with-Round-Head-Phillips-Drive-Screw-10-Piece-803932/204273383

Could just use bigger screws. For wood holes you can plug the hole with wood glue and toothpicks, then just screw your fasteners into that.

If you need more holding power, nearly anything you would use for drywall will work for this. If you are needing to get through the wood + drywall behind I would prefer flip toggle bolt.

Yeah the steps should be online somewhere. I remember having to do this as part of my troubleshooting. I think it involved manually moving the lever that gets pushed in when the ice tray is fully inserted. I think I had to press it in, then release it, 3x or something like that. Those steps would manually kick off the steps of pushing out the formed ice and then opening the valve to fill the ice mold w water.

If you watch what happens you can see if 1) the ice is being ejected from the mold properly, and 2) if the mold is being refilled w water.

In my case, the valve was working properly, but the fill tube (the portion of the tubing that's located on the inside of the freezer section) was frozen.

I drilled holes to put a floating tv console.

Why did you drill holes?

And what are you trying to hang?

Asbestos stopped being used in commercial and residential construction in 1979. I usually say if it’s built after 1983 (some builders continued to use the products they had stockpiled), it’s highly unlikely to contain asbestos.

Additionally, most cities and even some towns have testing labs. You bring in a sample and they’ll test it for $30-50.

Depending on how much torque it has to transmit, a simple gear (band) clamp around the hub of the gear may be enough.