Drill hole right through the center of the plastic and the shaft, insert an expanding pin that wont come out.

Quick clarification, you mentioned large bows but did you mean crown?

I did crown them all the same way! I assume one or two studs should have been discarded considering these gaps, but I did get them all going the same way .

This is going to sound bad perhaps but the devil is in the details and there’s not enough up close detail in the photos. The overall look is great, very modern. But what I can’t tell is are all the edges neat and clean. Is the quality of the grout good. Is everything plumb and level. When I was in the market for a new home I’d see these photos on Zillow which looked nice and then I’d get there in person and it looked like a 12 year old slapped some tile on the wall. Point is, I’d need to be there in person to saying anything more than “looks nice.”

Unless you have an old house without ground wires and want a 3 prong plug.

I don't know about DAP Caulking (seems it is a brand and not a specific product so I couldn't look it up. I'm from Australia so we don't have it here).

Just make sure the filler you use is flexible. A lot of basic caulking dries are and will just rip drywall off or flex the sheet instead of stretching. There are flexible gap fillers that are silicone based which would be better. Bathroom ones are available in white and a mould resistant otherwise there are paintable flexible ones out there too.

So if both the red and black are on the same breaker then putting the red on a second GFI isn't going to really help you unless you want that plug controlled by the switch. If you just want two GFI protected plugs outside your easiest route would be to put the black and white on the line side of a GFI and a normal plug coming off of the load side. You'll save the money for the second GFI and both plugs will still be protected.

I'll take it out and try this- would be an easy step before buying a new one since I need to take it out anyways. Thanks for the idea

I took the cover off, flipped it around and couldn't find anything, but I didn't look at a manual- Ill give it a shot, thanks.

This. ^^^

Yeah, looking less and less like something I can fix myself.

Same brand/type bulbs and switch (but not fixture) are used in both bedrooms with only one having the issue.

I've already checked that the lugs are tight but I didn't pull on any wires, I'll double check that those wires are secure.

First, check for asbestos! After that, use a sprayer to put water on the popcorn, it will soften. I taped a 6” scraper to the end of my wet/dry vac hose. Throw down a drop cloth, get to spraying and scraping. You can do that from a ladder if needed. Then run on the wet/dry and get to scraping. The vacuum sucks most of it up easing the cleanup. Then after it is all clean and dry, sand/patch any spots that need it.

The pin is pressed into the shaft. You should be able to knock it out from the other side with a punch unless it's in a blind hole.

For a DIY fix, that's tough because the shaft might be hardened steel, and a drill bit won't bite into it. I would scuff both surfaces and use a strong two-part epoxy like JB weld if I was 100% sure I never wanted the cog to be removed from the shaft ever again.

Heat the rod (not the pin) with a soldering iron then tap out the pin.

If you have room. A vertical gable. A piece of mill work coloured material that goes from under the counter to the floor. You will only see the 5/8 edge when your done.

Even if code allows for a long flex line where you are, I doubt it allows for a flex going through a floor or a wall, nor having the cooktop shut off in the basement. Has to be in same room.

https://codes.iccsafe.org/s/IRC2015/part-vi-fuel-gas/IRC2015-Pt06-Ch24-SecG2420.5

My icemaker always would get jammed up on the rotating mechanism and would freeze that in place. I'd take out the ice making mechanism and let it thaw out and good as new. Until it did it again 6 months later

It's been covered a few times in the comments, but Sheetrock is acceptable fire block where I live in Ontario and I'll be adding it later. Drywall is at least a few weeks away.

Sometime, after a power loss, the ice maker needs to be reset. There’s usually a sequence of buttons, or a single button, you have to press to reset the ice maker. You can Google your brand fridge and try that

If they are 240v black to red, that's just fine as those wires will be on seperate receptacles. Using a two pole breaker and a shared neutral is a normal way of supplying two circuits (when and where and how depends on your local code).

Looks like a screw is missing that would tighten down and hold tension on the track that bar slides upon.

Look around the ground in that area. The movers might have loosened it and then it fell on the ground while the door was swinging in the wind.

Thanks for rec

No. You could use 3M mounting squares, but they would stop sticking after a while. Good news is they're cheap to replace and easy to find

First the source of that water must be found and repaired, as well as any other damage it’s caused. Then to u’re going to need to open up that wall, so it can dry out before mold sets it. That means removing the plaster from one entire side of the wall. If you open it and find mold use a mixture of 1/4 bleach to 3/4 water to spray on the mold and kill it. Wear proper ppe to prevent inhaling any spores. While removing the plaster, open that window in the hall pic and open another on the first floor, putting a fan in the window downstairs to blow air in the house. Don’t use a downstairs window on this side of the house. When the leak and any other damage is mitigated, you can use drywall on this side to replace the plaster.

Indeed!