We can agree to disagree.

In my experience this stand is quite the majority in Europe that you should replace the ones that are faulty. In the States it is quite the opposite. You like throwing money out of the window we do not.

One of the best professional restorer measured the caps in mine during the service and found them to be close to as new and perfectly within specifications and strongly recommended against replacement.

I have accepted his recommendation and saved 100s of dollars and have been running the unit rather happily without the slightest issue with it for years.

Even from Sweden? It's gonna be very expensive to send them to the states 😔 they used to have an authorized shop here in Gothenburg but not any longer...

Demeyere, Falk, Dehellerin

Check out Osprey Archeon they are built to last a lifetime come in a range of sizes and configurations. I have 3 and I probably won’t ever need to replace them.

Or a dog crate?

Send them back to red wing! They will change the panels that need to be changed and resole them. Go on their website and search for the repair program. It’s worth it!

I don't want to start an audiophile flame war, but I would be remiss if I didn't point that out that there are a number of problems with this comment.

Electrolytics and paper in particular need to be replaced when they get old, period. Otherwise, maybe you end up with something innocuous like noise and distortion, or maybe something damaging like DC through your transformers and speakers. Did you pull the caps and test for leakage and ESR?

You can buy fancy, matched electrolytics if that's what you've got in the signal path. It ain't going to make the amp sound worse.

And death capacitors need to be replaced immediately, regardless of technology.

​

Edit: And again I just want to point out (I'm sure you're well aware of the dangers), that tube gear can kill even after the power is disconnected.

I like my timberlands but they don't last long in my industry because they're constantly exposed to water and abrasive chemicals.

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Good one

The best is built your own (lookup Corsi-Rosenthal box)

True, but he is buying something "for life" as in health through cleaner air :))

3x4? Is this a room or a "tent"

My electric bill is around $60 USD in months where neither heating nor air conditioning is needed. My electric company uses hydro-power, which every electrical thing in my house uses.

You do you, the rest of us will do ourselves.

hit up corporate and tell them all of this. 🤷‍♀️ suggest an alternative. i'm with you and hate this sort of shit.

Wrong sub

Just a general advice for leather, not specific to red wings. Of course, it depends on how you use them. It's not that much, just grease em up, can't take much more than a couple minutes!

Really? They require that much maintenance?

Yes, grease once a month :)

Five posts in two years obviously hidden agenda tRoll saze wut?

We're in Canada and use an induction range. Bought Le Creuset new enamelware Dutch oven and 9" frying pan in 1995. Well-used and look like new. Excellent conduction. Stove top and oven-safe. Added a new Le Creuset enamelware skillet in 2018 (on sale at Costco) and donated it ... poor quality IMO.

My tops and bottoms wear out before my second sole does. I take care of them with soap and oil, too. I may switch to whites and see if they last any longer

It is worth noting that I got my Demeyere from a European retailer and had it shipped to me in the US. It was much less expensive than buying from US retailers. In addition, European retailers carry the optional glass lids for the Proline/Atlantis, which are not sold in the US for some odd reason (they are excellent quality lids and are oven safe.)

All-Clad makes great products. I previously had the D3 and later the Copper Core and they are certainly good products. However, I would argue that the Demeyere is one of the pinnacles of multi-ply cookware for several reasons:

First, the amount of cladding used is greater than most other multi-ply cookware. The Proline skillets use twice the cladding materials as the D3, for example, giving it exceptionally even heating, exceptional sidewall heating, and exceptional heat retention approaching the performance of 4-5mm cast iron.

Second, they use welded handles instead of rivets, which makes cleanup easier, especially with fry pans and saute pans where one is cooking with a lot of oils.

Third, the electro-chemical surface treatment they use makes their pans perform better than other stainless cookware I have used with respect to ease in obtaining nonstick performance and ease of cleaning.

Fourth, the handle design is subjectively more ergonomic, and objectively better at staying cool over prolonged periods of cooking compared to my D3/CC.

Fifth, the optional oven-safe borosilicate glass lids that compliment the stainless lids are exceptional quality and add versatility. Having them for fry pans is especially nice.

Sixth, their sealed edges on their fully clad fry pans and sauciers greatly reduces the corrosion risk that open-edged multi ply cookware are vulnerable to over many years of use.

Seventh, the Atlantis/Proline has better warp resistance than most other stainless cookware, including the Copper Core and D3, and is an especially good choice for use on induction, which can be extremely hard on cookware.

All-Clad makes great products, but saying it is, "the only cookware worth buying in that category" is really not a fair assessment of the many great multi-ply cookware options available.

Those toasters have heating elements very much the same mechanism as an electric stove element. They are thin however. Over time they can and will get brittle and/or break and won’t heat properly. Push the lever down with nothing inside and look inside to see if you see one particular part of the element getting really bright and the rest not. Not necessarily a fix. You can buy toaster heating elements, but it would probably be cheaper just to hit up a goodwill etc and look for another old toaster.

Link to element: https://www.partsfps.com/toaster-element-for-toastmaster-part-k1d3920?gclid=Cj0KCQiAgOefBhDgARIsAMhqXA7jNHu06zhqnd4WtA9iDERc9s_Zlt-kGibuA8vHwUmgGJTFn0neV4UaAmAGEALw_wcB